2009 EZGO RXV controller upgrade.

[Jesse454545]

Good evening, I bought a 2009 Ezgo RXV and I think I may need to replace the controller since it doesnt do anything at all. No beep when in reverse ,no solenoid click when pedal is press, battery bank is at 49volts but still nothing. So I am leaning into getting a new controller. What is the best controller to get for speed with the rxv with a stock motor?

[Newbuggyboy]

You can do some things before if you want to.

I saw this post from someone else:

Originally Posted by kernal

This is a summary of the RXV power up test. I copied this from a member but can't remember who exactly. Probably cgtech, usgicollector, bob boyce or hightech red neck
Quote:
The RXV golf carts are some of the most sophisticated carts in existence. One of the things that many people don't know about with the RXV is that they have what is called a "power-up sequence." During this sequence a number of checks are made, and if any of them fail the vehicle will not run.

Here is the list of things the RXV self-checks for:

Electric brake - it will attempt to rock the motor a 1/4 turn both ways.

Park brake check - it will engage and then disengage the electric brake to check parking brake function.

Reverse alarm check - it will beep the reverse buzzer. (Yes this means if you remove or disconnect the reverse buzzer on an RXV the cart will fail to run.)

Charger inhibit check - Checks to make sure the charger is not currently plugged into the cart.

Throttle switch check - Also called HPD or high pedal disable. Accelerator must not be pressed or the cart will not run.

Throttle operation check - The cart makes sure the pedal registers both fully closed and fully open voltages correctly.

Any of these checks not passing will cause the cart to not run. Unfortunately, not even a handheld scanner can tell you which condition failed. I will give you a list of the common reasons I have seen for RXV's to fail the checks:

Bad charger receptacle port: Makes the cart think it's charging when it's not. Sometimes even a wet receptacle on a recently washed cart will trigger this.

Disconnected or removed reverse buzzer, or a buzzer full of water.

Accelerator is remaining partially depressed due to debris, mud, or some other factor preventing the pedal from returning fully. You can catch this one by reaching down and pulling the accelerator pedal all the way towards the seat and then switching on the cart. If it runs when it previously did not, very possibly something is causing the pedal to get stuck.

Loose battery connections. Especially on the RXV's with four twelve volt batteries, the rear battery tends to have a bad connection on the driver's side post. Check all the battery cables.

The aforementioned faulty solenoid. Inspect and replace. You can usually see an indicator of a bad solenoid because of a clear difference in color between the main posts, or even black marks or other signs of scorching.

The connector under the cupholders being loose or missing or damaged. Underneath the center of the dash there is a big white nine pin connector. Make sure it's not wet or damaged, and it is securely plugged in. Can cause carts to fail to run.

Faulty run/tow switch. When a run/tow switch starts to get weak or corroded it can cause failures to run because the vehicle essentially thinks it is still in TOW mode. Check the switch for signs of corrosion, damage, or loose wires.

My experience:

The local shops where I am ask customers to make sure the pedals are fully up and the tow switch is in run before they come to get the cart. Also to check the fuse on the blue wire coming out of the charge receptacle. Cart won't run if it gets wet. In most cases its the pedals. Usually fixed over the phone.

The electrically activated mechanical parking brake on the end of the motor is also a common cause of the cart failing to run.

Also, since this is a 2008 cart the original parking brake and solenoid were problematic. If these are original I think you should change them no matter what.

I'll try to put a list of what I did to get my cart back in order. That doesn't mean your will come alive also. What i did was basic stuff to test accessories for shorts, and the things in the fault code PDF. It was very frustrating. But it was a learning experience.

[cgtech]

49v is not a good starting reading. Time to study up. Rxv is picky about voltage & bad batteries, and 49v at rest is not a good starting point.

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

49v is not a good starting reading. Time to study up. Rxv is picky about voltage & bad batteries, and 49v at rest is not a good starting point.

Have you talked to battery manufacture. I called to ask them there recommend maintenance. They also gave me their method to test for specific gravity. And what the numbers meant to them. I filled with distilled water. They gave me a equalizing charging method. I have a pretty nice 12v die hard charger. I used their settings. I was just trying to eliminate any issue and establish good practices for the batteries.

Then I approached the problems that may prevent the rxv starting. See above. I Isolated and tested. I verified the wiring for each accessory checking for bad connection that might cause a short. I used a hand held battery dremel at low speed to clean both sides of any dirty connection to ensure good contact. Then I made my own test leads to check my acessories. 1st just one at a time for shorts. Then put power to 48v -12v reducer to see if that it was working. Along with fuse box. I took out the fuses to see if the diodes showed blown fuse. After putting fuses back in then tested all my accessories powered by reducer.

More to come

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

Have you talked to battery manufacture.

Just joking right? Pretty nice die hard charger? Just what is it's profile for golf car batteries? Guess I just can't offer any help here... Deuces.

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Just joking right? Pretty nice die hard charger? Just what is it's profile for golf car batteries? Guess I just can't offer any help here... Deuces.

I'm not sure of a profile. Both trojan and deka reccomend a 12v 15 amp charge on each individual battery. They based their recommendation on an individual battery's specific gravity and voltage. The Trojans are 8v while the deka are 12v.

Trojan video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-cMiBfKSZM

I was just trying to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

[Jesse454545]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

You can do some things before if you want to.

I saw this post from someone else:



I'll try to put a list of what I did to get my cart back in order. That doesn't mean your will come alive also. What i did was basic stuff to test accessories for shorts, and the things in the fault code PDF. It was very frustrating. But it was a learning experience.

Thank you for the link I was looking for something just like this, I will try to take some reading once I get home tonight.

[Jesse454545]

Originally Posted by cgtech

49v is not a good starting reading. Time to study up. Rxv is picky about voltage & bad batteries, and 49v at rest is not a good starting point.

CGtech I started out at 51volt when I bought the new trojan batteries but since the golf cart didnt come with a charger it has gone down to 49volt since then but it still had the same issue it's like there is not power at all but I check the battery bank it was at 49volt, same as the solenoid and from the solenoid to the controller was 48 volts. Not sure if one of my sensors are bad and that's why is not doing anything cuz it's not passing the test.

Another question, if it dont pass one of the test will the cart still act like it doesnt have any power or will you still see some kind of action when you turn the key or press the accelerator?

[Newbuggyboy]

Depends where it fails.

Remember

Originally Posted by kernal
This is a summary of the RXV power up test. I copied this from a member but can't remember who exactly. Probably cgtech, usgicollector, bob boyce or hightech red neck

Quote:
The RXV golf carts are some of the most sophisticated carts in existence. One of the things that many people don't know about with the RXV is that they have what is called a "power-up sequence." During this sequence a number of checks are made, and if any of them fail the vehicle will not run.

I have been told you can progress up and hear a single solenoid click, but then there is another failure. Someone adviced me that the cart may not recognize that the charger is unplug. They gave me a pin number on the 23 pin, but I'm not at home. What I do remember was testing the three prong charger inlet at the driver's feet. One is the ground and if you connect + from meter to the other 2 I got same voltage as battery pack.

Several websites let you call for troubleshooting help. I think they do to also sell you parts. Consider calling one of them.

Also review the wiring diagrams. A wrong wire on any component may be trouble some.

When my cart wouldn't power up, no solenoid click or reverse beeper, I replaced my motor brake by flipping the 1/2 3/4 under the run tow switch. That provide power to the brake and it released. As I replaced it my socket was constantly being pulled by the magnetic force. And the brake warmed up.

Remember to torquing to proper measure. That solenoid required 35lbs to large post and 15lbs to smaller. The motor brake had a range.

I wish I could help more. I'm just a rookie.

[usgicollector]

Your best bet would be not to start just throwing parts in this cart.

First you need a battery charger. Get pack fully charged and keep it that way.

Second start looking for someone with a Danaher handheld to help you figure out what is wrong with your cart. Yes you'll have to probably pay them for there help.