Want 7 more Leaf Modules...knew this would happen

[Volt_Ampere]

Extra support is always a good thing.

[DaveTM]

Got the pack in. Were it not for this COVID 19 thing I would have went with a aluminum angle "iron" to install\support the pack. This method worked, but there are easier methods that result in the same thing.

Anyway....I got the pack installed and at least the ZEVA monitor hooked up. I changed the amp\hr to 110 from 60. I'm guessing that's why the funky amp\hr reading. I believe that will be normal after I charge the pack.

I still need to hook up the POS & NEG cables, charger cables, HV\LV Relays, Sleep switch etc. I just wanted to hook up the monitor so I can....well...."monitor."

My plan is to "cap" the battery box with treated plywood that will come short of the terminals. I'm thinking of using a clear Plexiglas for a front cover. I used plexiglas before....but this time it will be "more better."

[DaveTM]

So, I got everything hooked back up today and the readings the BMS was giving were all normal.....what I expected.

So, turn on the key and the digital (separate) read out shows the correct voltage 54.7. My BMS shows 54.7. I make sure the cart is in Forward, just touch the pedal, the solenoid clicks, but nothing. Try reverse......nothing. Yet the solenoid will click when the pedal is pushed.

I check the V at the NEG on the controller and the POS of the solenoid and get 54.7V.

When I press the pedal, my Alltrax gives me 4 green blinks, a slight pause, and then a steady green. It's telling me something that I gotta look up.

I'm exhausted at this point so I'll check some of this stuff as my energy levels pick up. I'm certain....or fairly certain it's something simple that I've overlooked.

[Joelwdryden]

Isn't there a wire from the original controller that needs hooked up, some kind of fool safe to make sure you don't operate with it hooked to the charger? Don't recall?

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

[DaveTM]

So, it's obvious that I'm missing something simple. I've diagramed how my LV relay is hooked up. It doesn't work this way. When I connect the "to F\R" wire to the "From Solenoid" wire (using that little relay bypass I put there) the cart goes forward and reverse, no issues.

So, obviously I have something wrong here...unless the relay is bad. The relay is NO, so I know that when I test for V across the two prongs (NO and COM) I should get a reading. (Right?) But I get no reading.

I have power on the Batt + side at the relay. But not the ZEVA connection. Should i not have a neg V reading on the ZEVA side? As this would\should close the NO switch so that the circuit can be completed. (Just like when I by pass it?)

EDIT: I was just reviewing my pre-disassemble photos that I took, and I believe I just found the issue....if so, it's a simple one. I'll post when I see if this is the resolution.

[Sergio]

The other terminal in the Zeva BMS next to the LV terminal where You have the relay connected needs to be connected to pack negative to complete the signal.

The "To Solenoid...small nut front" really means the Solenoid positive activation wire in case the Solenoid has been rewired.

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The other terminal in the Zeva BMS next to the LV terminal where You have the relay connected needs to be connected to pack negative to complete the signal.

The "To Solenoid...small nut front" really means the Solenoid positive activation wire in case the Solenoid has been rewired.

Yeah.....I figured that out, but thank you for responding!!

I changed it from the POS terminal to the NEG terminal. I had that wire mis-labeled from the original build.

All works fine.....I will do some cleanup inside the box and some permanent mounting of a few things to get all secured.

Thanks for any and all input. Hopefully others will benefit from this and hopefully the pack will last the long term.

Dave

[DaveTM]

Done. Gotta test ride and then charge when I get back. My wiring is still a bit "spaghetti" looking.....but in order. I'll make that better I zip tied the fuse holder and for the shunt, I made a plastic cover that fits 98% of the exposed metal and zip tied it as well. Plastic cartridge holder did the trick. Took my old pack's terminal cover and cut it in half. It covers the terminals to the point where should anything metal drop.....it should cut down the risk of a short.

[Phil_Billy]

so how did your upgrade turn out. I an in the process of ordering all the items to do the same to my Marathon. Thanks Phil

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by Phil_Billy

so how did your upgrade turn out. I an in the process of ordering all the items to do the same to my Marathon. Thanks Phil

I love it! I wish I had just done the 14 module from the start.....but being somewhat conservative, and thinking "if this all goes south" I would have saved $$$ for not buying the additional 7 modules.

My cart has way more run time and I'm not always watching the remaining charge when I'm out for the day.

I'd advise anyone who is looking to upgrade to lithium, if that be a pack build like I did, or a "drop in" unit, to buy as many amp-hr as your wallet will let you. You won't regret it.