02-16-2008, 08:25 AM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lowndes County Ga.
Posts: 343
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paint
who has the best paint for these plastic carts ? The old metal ones weren't a problem but the paint for them peels very easy on the plastic .
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02-16-2008, 10:06 AM | #2 |
The Overposter!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dixie
Posts: 1,586
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Re: paint
Well what Ive always heard is that its more in the prep with the paint than the paint itself.
I used paint prepped for a Corvette thats made to flex. I have taken good care of it waxing it alot and it still looks like new after a year of mudding and trail riding. What color paint were you thinking about? Heres how mine came out... |
02-16-2008, 10:53 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lowndes County Ga.
Posts: 343
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Re: paint
Petty Blue w/ G.M. orange trim
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02-16-2008, 11:04 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lady's Island, Beaufort, SC
Posts: 11
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Re: paint
I just did a repaint on my old cart. I used the 'rattle can' method, and used Krylon. Spend 90% of your time with the prep, sanding, filling, sanding, sanding, going up to at least 400 grit. A good cleaning and wipedown before you shoot a drop of paint. Sand between each coat with another good cleaning and wipedown. After the 'color' is down, repeat the process with several clearcoats.....
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02-16-2008, 02:41 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Covington, TN
Posts: 1,942
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Re: paint
Prep work is the most important. You can also use a plastic promoter and a flex additive to the the paint to help. I have painted them using and not using the products and the paint didnt peel. The paint will flex some with out the flex additive, but a major bump will chip or crack the paint.
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02-16-2008, 05:10 PM | #6 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 343
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Re: paint
if you don't use flex additive and plastic promoter you can kiss the job good by also make sure it super clean and free of any type of contaminant's especially silicone products (armor all)
Quote:
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07-27-2008, 01:33 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 365
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Re: paint
BandNdesigns.com there's some good info on painting plastics.. or drop us an email and we'll help you out
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07-27-2008, 06:48 PM | #8 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: odessa.fl
Posts: 99
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Re: paint
make sure to use bulldog primer it makes paint stick to plastic and flex with out cracking and prep is very important light scuff all surface with scotch bright and wash if there is any oil on it you will get fish eyes in paint.
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07-28-2008, 08:47 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Slums of Lake Erie
Posts: 3,721
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Re: paint
Not sure how hard it is to get but a product called "Slide" will remove any oil and not deform the plastic.
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07-28-2008, 08:52 PM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 365
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Re: paint
basically MUST use an adhesion promoter. we sand blast the plastics with an abrasive to scuff it up nicely.... use a commercial plastic cleaner with pumice in it and a red scotebrite to further clean and scuff the plastics. spray 2-3 coats of plastic adhesion promoter... let dry (follow instructions to a T!!!) the paint will not act right if the promoter is not fully dry.
spray a extremely flexible primer, let cure, sand, clean, tack off, start painting, clear, etc. a lot of urethanes now have a flex additive already in them as well as clear coats (automotive paints) the key is in the prepping though. there's other alternatives such as adhesion promoter primers such as 'bumper cladding' it's thin.... so may take more coats to fill in your scratches if you do not sand them enough to begin with... but this saves a lot of prepping actually... you dont HAVE to scuff the plastics with it... but we always have just to be on the safe side.. bumper cladding is the same primer/adhesion promoter most dealership body shops use for plastic bumpers on factory cars. they also come in a vast amount of automotive factory colors |
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