Trojan Battery - Lithium OnePack

[CMA8611]

Originally Posted by rtsbars

Thanks. Good Point. I probably would have forgot to ask my brother in law for DC Amp meter.

I just did similar testing. One thing to keep in mind with the results. If your lead acid batteries are weak and the voltage is dropping, that will cause your amperage to increase. I’ll use my AC cart. I ran a DC clamp test the other night to see average flat, take off, and hill climb amperage. My batteries started fresh off the charger at 50.1v. My first 30ft long but 40ish degree hill pulled 224 amps. By the end of the night at the course, and voltage now resting around 48v, amperage jumped another 30amps in the same hill climb as the battery voltage was diving down to darn near 37volts.

Since lithium batts run a more constant voltage, your amperage’s should be lower than what you’ll measure with the lead acid. So whatever you measure with the lead acid would be worst case scenarios and subsequently lower with a lithium pack.

[rtsbars]

Originally Posted by CMA8611

I just did similar testing. One thing to keep in mind with the results. If your lead acid batteries are weak and the voltage is dropping, that will cause your amperage to increase. I’ll use my AC cart. I ran a DC clamp test the other night to see average flat, take off, and hill climb amperage. My batteries started fresh off the charger at 50.1v. My first 30ft long but 40ish degree hill pulled 224 amps. By the end of the night at the course, and voltage now resting around 48v, amperage jumped another 30amps in the same hill climb as the battery voltage was diving down to darn near 37volts.

Since lithium batts run a more constant voltage, your amperage’s should be lower than what you’ll measure with the lead acid. So whatever you measure with the lead acid would be worst case scenarios and subsequently lower with a lithium pack.

That's good information. I was able to do a quick test with my 2015 Yamaha DC YDREX5 and got 147 amps just on relatively flat ground getting up to speed. My lead acid batteries are shot though. It cuts out on me if I try to go up any incline. It was doing that on the golf course as well on any inclines. It is time for Lithium conversion... I just got off the phone with a local Yamaha dealer because I inquired about a stock Yamaha OEM RoyPow Lithium battery for my 2015 Drive DC. The sales manager told me they don't sell RoyPow even though it is the stock lithium in their new Yamaha golf carts. He also said I would need to replace my stock OEM controller with the 2015 Drive DC motor set up. He said it would likely cause problems with the stock controller and would not work as a drop in with the RoyPow Lithium battery. Does that sound right to any of the electrical community out here. Thanks in advance for the feedback. The last thing I want to do is buy a new Lithium 48v battery and have it fry the OEM Moric controller.

[rtsbars]

I sent a email to RoyPow and this was the response...
Thank you for your inquiry.

The RoyPow battery is generally compatible with Yamaha golf carts and does not require a specialized controller. However, as your cart is a used model, we cannot confirm if the existing controller has inherent issues.
Please consult your dealer to clarify the more specific reason for the controller replacement recommendation.

Feel free to share their feedback with us, and we'll gladly assist further.

[Bama Brad]

I could be mistaken, and there is certainly more knowledgeable folks on here, but I don't think that converting to Lithium from FLA will effect any controller. 48 volts is 48 volts. Does your cart have Regen braking? Maybe that is what he is referring to.

[rtsbars]

Yes. I believe that the 2015 YDREX5 has regen braking.

[rtsbars]

Answer I got back from dealer:
Yamaha has stated that in order for the Lithium conversion to work you will need the following:

Battery
Wiring Harness
Charging Receptacle
Charger
Resistor Coil Burnoff
Controller

You will also need to change the bucket where the battery sits as your current bucket has molded plastic to keep your current 8 volt batteries in place.

[seefloyd]

Originally Posted by rtsbars

Answer I got back from dealer:
Yamaha has stated that in order for the Lithium conversion to work you will need the following:

Battery
Wiring Harness
Charging Receptacle
Charger
Resistor Coil Burnoff
Controller

You will also need to change the bucket where the battery sits as your current bucket has molded plastic to keep your current 8 volt batteries in place.

I think all of that is a bit excessive. I just did a lithium conversion on my 2018 Drive2, and the only thing I really need was the battery & charger. The controller is not necessary, but is a good option as the stock controller is problematic. Charge receptacle is nice, a NOCO or clone is a nice addition if you place the charger in the cart. Resistor Coil Burnoff and Wiring Harness....I see no reason for the change.

[rtsbars]

Dealer provided an image of the internals of Trojan's OnePack using a clear display case for showing off. Still on the hunt for user reviews.

[sleeplesstwo]

I have done several lithium installations on both the AC and DC Yamaha Drive carts.
I have had some experience with Trojan lithium units, and while the quality looks very good, they are just to pricey for them to be an option.

I helped a large dealer friend try to prevent shutdown on the GC 2 version without any luck. They have since improved the firmware and prevented this issue, but Trojan would only allow a dealer rep to perform the update.
I have no experience with the OnePack unit, but at that price point I don't have a reason to buy one, when I have had incredibly good luck with Epoch, both in quality and customer service.

In my experience with lithium conversions on your Yamaha DC cart, your Moric controller will be fine, but the Hitachi motor could be the weaker link. The Hitachi motors are prone to sticking brushes do to heat and corrosion. In truth, I would just do the conversion to lithium. The controller and motor will be fine unless they have any pre-existing issues. New batteries, lead acid or lithium, can find weak points on any cart.

The installation is very easy on the Drive. Remove all of the battery hold-down brackets and remove the batteries. I just use an oscillating saw to remove the plastic battery separators from your battery tray. You will then have nice flat surface to bolt your new lithium unit on. If you install it as far on the passenger side as possible, this leaves room for a small cooler under the drivers side.

Epoch or ECO if you want quality and support. I am sure others are great, but I have seen many fail my RXV test miserably.