G16e Lithium Conversion

[notime2d8]

Hey, I hope this is the right place to post. I hoping some experts could look at my build or parts list as I go and make sure that I don't burn down my garage. But someone gave me a 1996 Yamaha Golf cart that had been sitting up since the charger broke. I plan on using it mostly for yard work and maybe camping twice a year.

Where I'm at so far, I've cleaned it, removed old batteries, cables, wiring, and FNR switch.

Then I ordered two 24v 7s3p 24ah batteries that I plan to series and run one 14s BMS for balancing and charging only and not for low voltage protection. No one will be using it but me, and i plan to use the controller for LV cutoff and have a meter.

These are the parts I'm set to get and probably the order that I will buy them.

• EZ-GO 4-pin key switch
• Daly Smart 14s 48v 40a BMS
• MZJ-400a Solenoid
• SW202 Reversing Contactor
• 48v Li-ion Charger
• 2g welding cable and 3/8 lugs
• Alltrax SR48500 Speed Controller

For the ez-go 4-pin switch, would there be any issue with wiring it where the lights and radio come on first like a car ACC, and the cart come on with the second position?

I also ordered four 4s3p 14.4v 6.6ah batteries with built in BMS and was planning on paralleling and running the lights and radio but I can only safely pull 15-20a from them which is less that the 48v-12v convertor I was looking at. And neither would be good enough for a winch. I may just get a small AGM battery.


Any tips, feedback, or used parts are welcome.

[Pat911]

The problem with using the controller for LV cutoff is that it will only be checking total pack voltage. You really need to be checking each cells voltage and cutting off if any one cell gets below the threshold. That’s is what the BMS is for. You can use your 40a BMS to cut the key switch input and that will give you LV cutout at a cell level, not just at a pack level.

There’s a great thread by Sergio in the Lithium Club Car sub forum that can be adapted to your cart.

Cheers
Pat.

[notime2d8]

Originally Posted by Pat911

The problem with using the controller for LV cutoff is that it will only be checking total pack voltage. You really need to be checking each cells voltage and cutting off if any one cell gets below the threshold. That’s is what the BMS is for. You can use your 40a BMS to cut the key switch input and that will give you LV cutout at a cell level, not just at a pack level.

There’s a great thread by Sergio in the Lithium Club Car sub forum that can be adapted to your cart.

Cheers
Pat.

Thanks for the info. I checked that thread and read all of it. But i couldn't find out if I was looking at the latest revision. He also kept speaking about regen which I won't have. I was planning on getting the hard parts mounted then looking back at his setup to see what I can use before I start wiring.

[notime2d8]

Ehh, I don't know where I'm at on this project. I did get the frame stripped, cleaned, and painted. I also got some good and okay deals on some parts.

Things that came in this week:

• Albright reversing contactor for $92 - but it's damaged/missing a piece of plastic.
• Alltrax SR-72500 for $440 - Haven't tested it yet but if it works, I want to hug the seller.
• Grote turn signal with Hazards, lights, and turn signals for $52
• Jensen MS3A Marine bluetooth radio for $32.50

I also got my BMS connected and setup how i wanted it.

[notime2d8]

So starting the wires for the Ezgo 3 position switch, I found that the original hole was way too big for it. I tried using the plugged hole next to it, but it would interfere with my radio.

What I found was that Ezgo lock ring was really close to fitting inside the original Yamaha lock ring. I put the two in the vise and they fit together perfectly. The groves and ridges on the two rings lock them solid and they fit flush. So the Ezgo switch can now fit the old hold and kinda look OE.

[Pat911]

Nice setup with the batteries. So what’s your specific question, if you don’t know where you’re at then how am I and others supposed to know

Seriously, have you started any wiring in the cart? If not, I would start by mounting everything where you want it and start wiring, making the battery connection at the very end.

Cheers
Pat.

[notime2d8]

Originally Posted by Pat911

Nice setup with the batteries. So what’s your specific question, if you don’t know where you’re at then how am I and others supposed to know

Seriously, have you started any wiring in the cart? If not, I would start by mounting everything where you want it and start wiring, making the battery connection at the very end.

Cheers
Pat.

Lol, no specific question. I'm just generally lost, too much to do. But yes I'm going to do what you suggested. I'm going to weld in a steel floor this week, then layout parts and post a picture to check for any obvious issues.

The first issue I ran into is that I didn't like the battery on one side like I planned. So I need to add some bracing and plan on having it directly in the center. Then I want the controller and solenoid on the right, and the 12v fuse block and inverter on the left.

[notime2d8]

Well I got 2 good rides in with the new setup. It was fun but now it's not working. I have no clue whats going on.

The controller isn't getting any throttle input now? It read 12% then 6% now nothing. It was working yesterday a full 0 -100%

It's also blowing the 10a fuse when I push the gas pedal. It doesn't happen if I remove the diode? Can I remove the two diodes and just run new wires for key switch power, and pedal switch power?

All of the other wire connectors are remove, I can't find anything touching or grounding out. Unless the diode is bad.

The solenoid and F&R both click when i press the pedal.

I did test the throttle with a multi-meter and only got a reading on the blue wire and ground. Nothing on white to ground or between blue and white.

[Pat911]

Sorry, can’t help with that. One of the Yamaha guys will have to chime in.

[notime2d8]

I figured it all out and I'm back rolling. You can't test the throttle over USB without the cart being powered on. My cart wouldn't power on because of the two blown diodes. I used two of the same diodes used on the solenoid instead of the Yamaha specific ones. Then I cleaned the corrosion in the throttle connector.


Now for the pics, I went with the sw202 switch. I welded in a bracket for it next to the solenoid. For the F&R switch, I wanted it on the dash. To clear the cup holders I had to make a spacer. I did it partially out of plastic but then super glue and baking soda.

I used 2/0 AWG for the power and ground and #2 AWG for the motor wires. I used power inverter cables from Harbor Freight and a Ebay hydraulic crimper. I still have two wires to replace though. I keep changing routing to make things look neater.

I also extended the battery tray back towards the motor and welded in a steel floor, added a 12v inverter, led 12v outlets to both sides, marine radio, and a new steering wheel. I have the 12v inverter and everything but the motor ground going through the BMS. Low voltage does cause the cart to shut off.