1988 par car backfire lack of power on inclines

[backyard]

Rig up a multimeter so you can check the voltage at the coil + terminal while your sitting in the drivers seat and cranking on it. Alligator clips and some jumper wires will do nicely.

If the voltage isn't there or below 12 volts when it quits, then you should check the microswitch or starter solenoid.

[Linco3]

10-4, will do.

[tew45]

It sounds like heat related rather than fuel.

[Lochlin]

TEW may be onto to something:

Check your fan to make sure it's intact. Probably two years ago I had a a few blades pull free from my fan due to corrosion. Those corroded ones got wedged in the motor housing and ruined all of the good ones too. There were only a couple left intact, not enough to cool the engine. The engine would run for a 10th of mile or so then quit from over heating. It would start again only to repeat the cycle. It wasn't until I tore things apart that I found a faulty fan.

Also, test your ignition module with the following test:

1) Remove the black wire from the ignition module, where it connects to the coil.
2) Connect the positive lead from the volt meter to the black wire.
3) Connect the negative lead from the volt meter to ground.
4) Remove the spark plug wire
5) Turn the meter on, set to the "diode" tester. It will either show a flashing number(open state) or a value around .55V. An "open state" (flashing number) shows that the transister is NOT conducting and needs replaced.
6) Turn the ignition key to ON. While watching the meter, turn the flywheel by hand. The value (.55V) should be on for approximately half the rotation and the "open state" (flashing number) for the other half of the rotation.


Excessive heat via too much current running through them, too much engine heat, or a combination of both is what kills those. A lot of times those modules are "all or nothing" meaning they either work or they don't. However, I did see one that was acting all funny for a while before it finally died. The cart worked in reverse but not forward and backfired a lot as it was getting intermittent spark. I looked like an idiot driving a backfiring cart backwards until I got it home.

[Linco3]

Well maybe i'm thinking..... all day I wondered about "heat" too, wondered do these things vapor lock like a auto. Now the temp is in the 80's here in NW Ill. but we got a breeze...but tomorrow and next 90's and humid. I check fuel flow & the vaccum both good. I will say I don't like where the pump is from last owner haven't got that far to mounting it RIGHT but I don't know where it was stock. Fan blades good I checked hose and for dirt, I've only had this a month and doing alot of cleaning and moving stuff. I will try this meter voltage stuff to.

[Linco3]

3 more pics.

[Linco3]

Hi, guys. Well I ended up taking cart to shop (there new to me). the thing is the mechanic gave kudos to myself & YOU guys who had input. BUT we still have a run awhile>stop>sit> cool down MY way of putting it issue. He did replace the 3-4 diodes you know what i'm speaking of correct? and it's still is doing it. There a ride away from my home so I just don't jump in van and run to the shop. He works after 4pm Tues, Wed. Thur. so i'm gonna take a ride and talk. I'm ready for some more of your thoughts of what were chasing. I have NO problem taking your advice to him. Thanks.

[backyard]

I'm going to have to refresh my memory here, but what all have you replaced or checked besides 3 diodes.

You said your fan is in good shape.

Did you test the ignition module?

Did you check to see if you have 12v at the + side of the coil when it quit? You'll have to jack up the rear wheels and press the accelerator to check it which will be a pain since you might be in the middle of nowhere when it quits and you'll have to hurry too before it cools down enough to start back.

It sounds as though when it quits in forwards, it will still run in reverse, is this true? If so this sounds like the keyswitch is getting hot and killing the fire to the coil and starter generator.

[Linco3]

To all who were trying to help, Yes it's been along time, do to health issues the cart was at the shop all last year no one had a clue we tried a bunch of avenues from all your help. Ended up they took it to Missouri and they put a new piston/rod etc. scored jug/piston.... Yes I got took from whom I purchased, stuff happens and you move on... Way to much money I suppose in a 88 but once you get into it you just can't take a complete loss. Couple things with all your knowledge, NO i'm not gonna sell BUT what do you think this Par Car would go for on the open market give or take just wanna see what i've got in it? Sure runs better LOL... 2. Have a slight leak on rearend and want to drop cover and new gasket and gear lube, what lube and weight do I use? Thanks guys for all your help and input.....

[tew45]

That problem should have shown up with a compression check! I thought it was checked at the first of the post. I'm not sure what it will bring on the market since appearance is a good part of any evaluation. Check ebay and see what they are selling for not what is the asking price. If it looks very good and we know you have records on what was replaced it should bring a good price.