2004 TXT hard start

[trig123]

Originally Posted by CP241

Ok so let’s try this… trust but verify

Take the main jet out of your carb and look at it closely. It should have either an 80, 82, or 90 stamped into the side of it in small numbers.

Ezgo carbs are hard to absolutely identify as oem too because they don’t clearly have mikuni or keihin stamped into the body.

As JP said that little square clip thing can be a real PITA. Also make sure the cable routes between the starter and the motor so it goes STRAIGHT up to that stupid black clippy thing. Otherwise the cable can bind and it won’t be happy.

I also know this is a mci and they’re not common for the valve wear like pre mci but maybe if you could get a picture of the valve adjusters clearly showing the threads on top of the lock nuts. Even the mci if they’re run hard, with governor cranked, and have a bunch of hours the valves can still wear.

I have taken probably 15 of these apart and none with the 90 jet yet. I keep looking because I have a 350 MCI engine I need one for. I have a MCI carburetor but it has the 80 jet like all of them have that I have looked into.
Only difference in the 295 and 350 carburetor is the jet.
Its really easy to tell them apart from the cheap ones. Cheap ones have no marking on them. OEM ones have a 13 stamped inside . You will see it easy.
13mm venturi.
The pre mci ones were 15 mm. A 15 is stamped in it . The bowl and float is different. You could adjust the floats on older ones with a 15 mm venturi. They weren't made of plastic.
MCI carbs have the non adjustable plastic float. Take a look at your float lever when it inverted . Is your float plastic ? does the float sit parallel to body?

[CP241]

That was kinda my thought… maybe they installed a 350 carb… they look identical and would be easy to mistake

[trig123]

Originally Posted by CP241

That was kinda my thought… maybe they installed a 350 carb… they look identical and would be easy to mistake

Hope that is all He can send me that 90 jet if that's the case and I will send him an 80 These are advertised online that they fit 295 and 350 which is really not true . They will run because I have a 350 that has the 80 jet in it. It runs but I don't have it in a cart right now. Table engine lol less wire-nuts
Don't know how it would run in a cart but I will find out soon . My bet is it will run lean but we will see
Wonder what his spark plugs look like ?
If he could upload a picture of the spark plugs it might help us .
What cylinder they came out of because one of his cylinders is lower on compression than the other one. Like 20 pounds the best I remember.
I don't ever remember one of these engines having 180 pounds of compression either ?

[parks531]

Originally Posted by CP241

Ok so let’s try this… trust but verify

Take the main jet out of your carb and look at it closely. It should have either an 80, 82, or 90 stamped into the side of it in small numbers.

Ezgo carbs are hard to absolutely identify as oem too because they don’t clearly have mikuni or keihin stamped into the body.

As JP said that little square clip thing can be a real PITA. Also make sure the cable routes between the starter and the motor so it goes STRAIGHT up to that stupid black clippy thing. Otherwise the cable can bind and it won’t be happy.

I also know this is a mci and they’re not common for the valve wear like pre mci but maybe if you could get a picture of the valve adjusters clearly showing the threads on top of the lock nuts. Even the mci if they’re run hard, with governor cranked, and have a bunch of hours the valves can still wear.

Main jet is stamped 82

carburetor was $100+ dollars and ordered it from a dealer here in NW Ohio box was stamped with ezgo etc

Square clip looks to be inserted correctly and going straight up. ( Pics attached)

I know the governor was turned way up when I purchased and this cart has had some serious hours put on it from previous owner and myself. Picture of the valve adjustment threads is attached as well. Thanks for you help!

[CP241]

I agree trig. 180 does sound high especially if the other is 165. Maybe a lot of carbon buildup in the exhaust port behind the valve?

Assuming all the valves are .004 the intake valves do show that they needed more adjustment than the exhaust valves to get there. Not that they’re big red flag wow excessive, but definitely different.

At this point, you’ve pretty much checked everything external that you can. If it’s been run as hard as you say with a ton of hours on it, may be time to take it apart and see what’s cookin inside of it.

Be worth checking the timing belt marks and make sure it isn’t stretched or skipped a tooth. But I suspect whatever is going on is wear internally… either worn valves, or heavy carbon buildup

[parks531]

Originally Posted by CP241

I agree trig. 180 does sound high especially if the other is 165. Maybe a lot of carbon buildup in the exhaust port behind the valve?

Assuming all the valves are .004 the intake valves do show that they needed more adjustment than the exhaust valves to get there. Not that they’re big red flag wow excessive, but definitely different.

At this point, you’ve pretty much checked everything external that you can. If it’s been run as hard as you say with a ton of hours on it, may be time to take it apart and see what’s cookin inside of it.

Be worth checking the timing belt marks and make sure it isn’t stretched or skipped a tooth. But I suspect whatever is going on is wear internally… either worn valves, or heavy carbon buildup

I'll redo the compression test just to verify for certain

Valve's were set to .004 2 weeks ago

It most definitely has had some run time on her, the guy purchased it from used it for many hours a day along with his kids. I use it 6+ hours a weekend for 7 months out of the year at a campground.

I have a timing belt , head gasket and valves and seals ordered. Something I can get to come a rainy weekend. How do I get access to torque specs etc? Thanks CP241

[trig123]

I think the intake valves are the problem. I also don't like the way the camshaft looks. This engine is the MCI and its been into before. MCI's didn't have this type screw adjuster.

I know it don't take much to trash one of these cylinder heads where the camshaft runs and even the camshaft itself. Even though we were told the oiling system was supposed to be better on the MCI I got my doubts if they actually made it better. These engines sure don't like being overheated and run hard. By crushing the governor spring you risk just that.

I wonder what the oil pressure is when hot ? It should shoot a straight line from one end of the head to the other if its good. You can remove oil fill plug and just lightly tap gas pedal for a split second and you will see how good oil pressure is. Don't get oil on you

I would remove the engine and then take the cylinder head off. I do think you will see the intakes sunk in head. At least from looking from my end it looks that way.

I can have one of these engines sitting on my workbench much faster than I could try and remove the head with engine still in cart. Believe me I have tried both ways.
I know CP241 will agree with that. He and I both know the history of the wonderful MCI

[CP241]

I agree with everything trig said.

If you have an oil pressure gauge you can thread it into the port where the sending unit is. Don’t trust the sending unit if you have one, it’s just a dummy light in the dash and by the time it turns on you have zero oil pressure and damage is already done. Most of the engines without the light hooked up just have a plug in the hole. You can thread a manual gauge into it and see what your pressure actually is. It’s been a while but if I recall, around 60psi or better on a cold start, and averages between 25-40psi (depending on RPM) as you drive it. It only takes 2-3psi to turn the light on the dash off.

But I do agree, the motor needs to come apart now. Everything measured for wear. Your compression looks good so shouldn’t have to mess with the bottom half but I think you’ve got issues in your head. Worn valves and possibly carbon buildup in the exhaust ports. Due to the design of this head and the exhaust manifold you can’t see that buildup unless you remove the valve

[parks531]

Originally Posted by CP241

I agree with everything trig said.

If you have an oil pressure gauge you can thread it into the port where the sending unit is. Don’t trust the sending unit if you have one, it’s just a dummy light in the dash and by the time it turns on you have zero oil pressure and damage is already done. Most of the engines without the light hooked up just have a plug in the hole. You can thread a manual gauge into it and see what your pressure actually is. It’s been a while but if I recall, around 60psi or better on a cold start, and averages between 25-40psi (depending on RPM) as you drive it. It only takes 2-3psi to turn the light on the dash off.

But I do agree, the motor needs to come apart now. Everything measured for wear. Your compression looks good so shouldn’t have to mess with the bottom half but I think you’ve got issues in your head. Worn valves and possibly carbon buildup in the exhaust ports. Due to the design of this head and the exhaust manifold you can’t see that buildup unless you remove the valve

CP241- thanks for all you and Trig'a help. I'll tear into this top end in the coming months as my schedule is going to be hectic. I do have an oil pressure gauge, where is the port for the oil pressure switch? I looked around on the engine and don't see a plug or anything, but I may be missing it in all the dirt and grime. Thanks!

[CP241]

It would be on the passenger side of the motor on the side case. Towards the front of the engine. If you were looking at it directly from the passenger side of the motor it’s at about the 2 o clock position. I’ll try and find a picture