Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever
I wouldn't swap the controller again as that should be an IQ controller on the '04 and an I2/Excel controller on the '12.
Something is pulling a LOT of current after the solenoid as that is what's causing your resistor to get hot. Its purpose is to supply a low current charge to you capacitors in the controller. It cannot take much load and you definitely have a high load (demand) on it right now.
And I am sorry if I do not fully comprehend all of your post, but was this immediately after the converter installation or the light installation or both?
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The first time I noticed the burn8ng smell was after the light kit/reducer/fuse install. I never even opened the controller box prior to install of light kit/reducer. Recducer wired from pack positive and Negative. All connections for reducer and fuse buss are insulated and conduit covered etc.
I’m trying to figure out what would cause the controller or something else to have a major draw on the solenoid with the cart in tow and key off. If the Solenoid somehow got welded shut, would a new one stop the issue? Would see so, since the issue seems to be a draw on the pack while the solenoid is shut.
Just a thought.
Nole, appreciate the feedback. Sorry about your boys versus the Zags. Rough game. Good season though.