[joshodonn]

Hi folks, first time poster here. I recently purchased a 1997 48V Club Car DS that I am restoring. I am trying to add a 25A voltage reducer that I bought from Scottyb, but I'm having some troubles. I'm working with him on it through email but figured I'd post here in case there were other suggestions to consider.

Long story short - I have everything wired up according to the diagram he gave me, and everything appears to be working correctly as long as I have the battery cable from the 48V positive to the solenoid disconnected. once I connect it, the reducer no longer gets switched off by the key switch, it stays powered on, or so it appears to be staying powered on, I wired in an LED tail light for testing and it only switches on and off when that cable to the solenoid is disconnected.

Here is how I have it wired:

Converter Yellow to 48V battery pack positive, and then ran a line from 48V battery pack positive to key switch 'IN/off'
Converter Red to 12V positive fuse box
Converter Black to 12V negative buss bar
Converter Blue to 48V battery pack negative
Converter Orange to key switch 'OUT/on'

I had a voltmeter wired in as well but determined today that the wrong meter was sent so I'm waiting on a replacement.

The other question I had was on the key switch itself, the 'IN' position would be where the factory blue wire is connected, and the 'OUT' position would be where the factory green is connected?

Prior to installing the reducer I successfully installed a 500 amp controller, 400 amp solenoid, a HD F&R switch, 2g cable set, and the 10 hp Admiral A1 motor, and everything was running fine. The only other change I made when installed the reducer was I removed the mounting bolts for the on-board computer and flipped the OBC 180 degrees and remounted it to give me more clearance to mount the reducer.