Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum - View Single Post

NoleFan4Ever · 08-16-2018, 08:21 PM

Usually brushes go, but a motor that is old or ridden hard can surely fail internally.

If all above tests good, you can test the motor like this:

Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", (If you have one) then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it). If you have a Series motor some will have S1/S2 in place of F1/F2.

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms (Sepex only)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Series motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to S1. Then connect 12 volts positive to A2 and 12 volts negative to S2. (swap S1 and S2 to change rotation direction) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

08-16-2018, 08:21 PM	#5
NoleFan4Ever MOD of all BS! Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Florida Posts: 17,477	Re: DS No Go Usually brushes go, but a motor that is old or ridden hard can surely fail internally. If all above tests good, you can test the motor like this: Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", (If you have one) then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it). If you have a Series motor some will have S1/S2 in place of F1/F2. Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and: - Test between A1 and A2 (Beep) - Test between F1 and F2 (Beep) - Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep) - Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep) - Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep) Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and: - Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms (Sepex only) If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor: To test run a Series motor: With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to S1. Then connect 12 volts positive to A2 and 12 volts negative to S2. (swap S1 and S2 to change rotation direction) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... To test run a Sepex (regen) motor: With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.