Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum - View Single Post - G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies

slonomo · 02-17-2013, 02:04 PM

I'll start with a basic overview of the G1 gas carts.

Yamaha G1 Golf cart
Built from 1979 to 1986
Available in both 2 stroke gas and electric models

Timeline http://www.yamahagolfcar.com/corpora...rtimeline.aspx

Serial # ID http://www.3rsalesandservice.com/3r-...amaha-year.asp

G1 GAS:
The G1 gas cart is a 215cc two stroke oil injected engine. The engine was derived from a snowmobile engine, possibly the Enticer 250 since some of the parts are interchangeable and the block castings are nearly identical. They are known for their ruggedness and durability, as some of these carts are 30 yrs or older and still going strong!

Reverse gear does not exist on these carts, rather the engine turns backwards to get reverse. You'll note on the inner fender on the passenger side there are a set of solenoids. These are the components that allow the engine to start backwards and run in reverse.

The factory oil injection system mixes the oil automatically at ratios ranging from 150:1 to 300:1, according to the service manual. Sometimes these injection systems can fail and cause engine damage, so often times people disconnect them and use premixed oil/gas. Reported premix ratios range from 40:1 to 100:1, maybe even higher, and are "at your own risk". I am not recommending this modification, simply reporting what I've found on this forum. Please do this modification at your own risk and be aware that engine damage and failure can result if the mix ratio is not correct.

Power for these carts is in the 8hp range, give or take 1 depending upon weather, fuel, and driving conditions. Getting more power is not easy on these engines because they are low compression, low rpm engines and are not really designed for max power. Switching to a "big block" is not usually a good option because you would lose your reverse and would need to swap out the rear end/transaxle to a 4 stroke model with a reverse gear.

Speed of these carts have been reported around 12-15mph with the governor intact and as high as 30mph with the governor modified. Do not modify your governor or engine damage could result.

Body parts are both plastic and fiberglass. The front fenders/clip portion is some sort of a plastic material and the rear section is a reinforced fiberglass with a steel framework that tilts up for engine access.

Year Identification is typically done by verifying the serial number on the frame. The common location is behind the rear bumper on the round main frame. The number is stamped/engraved and might not be visible if there is alot of rust and dirt. Clean the area off and lightly sand the area with a scotchbrite type pad to reveal the numbers. Do not sand off the paint or rust will start there.

Lift kits are available from a couple aftermarket mfgs and some people choose to install their own fabricated lift. 4" lift is required for 20" tires. 5-6" lift is required for 22" tires. Any more than 22" tires will require some kind of a custom lift and/or swing arm drop, which is quite a lot of work for most. Some frame trimming in the wheel wells may be needed. The frame may need modified to allow clearance for the primary clutch.

02-17-2013, 02:04 PM	#2
slonomo Searching for The Way Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Medina, Ohio (NEOHIO) Posts: 11,441	Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies I'll start with a basic overview of the G1 gas carts. Yamaha G1 Golf cart Built from 1979 to 1986 Available in both 2 stroke gas and electric models Timeline http://www.yamahagolfcar.com/corpora...rtimeline.aspx Serial # ID http://www.3rsalesandservice.com/3r-...amaha-year.asp G1 GAS: The G1 gas cart is a 215cc two stroke oil injected engine. The engine was derived from a snowmobile engine, possibly the Enticer 250 since some of the parts are interchangeable and the block castings are nearly identical. They are known for their ruggedness and durability, as some of these carts are 30 yrs or older and still going strong! Reverse gear does not exist on these carts, rather the engine turns backwards to get reverse. You'll note on the inner fender on the passenger side there are a set of solenoids. These are the components that allow the engine to start backwards and run in reverse. The factory oil injection system mixes the oil automatically at ratios ranging from 150:1 to 300:1, according to the service manual. Sometimes these injection systems can fail and cause engine damage, so often times people disconnect them and use premixed oil/gas. Reported premix ratios range from 40:1 to 100:1, maybe even higher, and are "at your own risk". I am not recommending this modification, simply reporting what I've found on this forum. Please do this modification at your own risk and be aware that engine damage and failure can result if the mix ratio is not correct. Power for these carts is in the 8hp range, give or take 1 depending upon weather, fuel, and driving conditions. Getting more power is not easy on these engines because they are low compression, low rpm engines and are not really designed for max power. Switching to a "big block" is not usually a good option because you would lose your reverse and would need to swap out the rear end/transaxle to a 4 stroke model with a reverse gear. Speed of these carts have been reported around 12-15mph with the governor intact and as high as 30mph with the governor modified. Do not modify your governor or engine damage could result. Body parts are both plastic and fiberglass. The front fenders/clip portion is some sort of a plastic material and the rear section is a reinforced fiberglass with a steel framework that tilts up for engine access. Year Identification is typically done by verifying the serial number on the frame. The common location is behind the rear bumper on the round main frame. The number is stamped/engraved and might not be visible if there is alot of rust and dirt. Clean the area off and lightly sand the area with a scotchbrite type pad to reveal the numbers. Do not sand off the paint or rust will start there. Lift kits are available from a couple aftermarket mfgs and some people choose to install their own fabricated lift. 4" lift is required for 20" tires. 5-6" lift is required for 22" tires. Any more than 22" tires will require some kind of a custom lift and/or swing arm drop, which is quite a lot of work for most. Some frame trimming in the wheel wells may be needed. The frame may need modified to allow clearance for the primary clutch.