You guys are awesome. Thank you. I got into the electrical briefly but with my son graduating this weekend, this mule isn't on the honey do list.
I did identify that there was a rogue red lead to the positive side (with the yellow connector). I removed that b/c this seemed to be part of a previous light bar installation. I traced a black, white and red through the dash, back up to the light bar toggle switch on the dash. That thing was a mess b/c of a rogue 30amp fuse, a loose red, a connected to the battery red, a rogue black and another connected to some odd accessory relay. All hidden in a electrical tape bundle Christmas present. Such a mess.
Honestly I stopped there because I hear there are "more important" things I need to accomplish.
The mule does not crank. Turn of the key yields the fuel pump prime and a click of the starter relay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartmaster
No Worries CCNorth.
I am speculating from photo's and the diagram as i have never worked on a fuel injected gas Mule before. Im just thinking logically from what i can see.
I wish the diagram was higher definition as the colour designations blur when i expand the images.
I wont have much time to look at it today as i have some catching up to do before going on annual leave next week.
I will be back when i can though.
[EDIT]
I am Back for a few minutes.
Right, I managed to take a good hard look at the diagram. You may have to check the diagram yourself though as i am rushing through this.
What i thought was a cable/wire bundle for an extra alternator, actually appears to be the original bundle that fed the starter motor on the large red cable, the white wire feeds the accessory fuse No2 on fusebox No2 and the blue/red feeds the fan relay respectively.
Can you confirm that the cable you currently have for the starter feed is on a factory terminal or does it look like it has been "upgraded". I think that it has been cut from the bundle and connected to the battery post on its own for some reason. I am going to suggest that we cut the white and Blue/red from the bundled wires and terminate them individually. This would put the wiring back to specification. then throw the bundle connector as far as away as you possibly can. Its confusing the real issue here. We need to put everything right. find any stray grounds and eliminate them if there are any. make sure that the fan now works, and then figure out the cranking situation. Find the starter relay and start investigating that. See if you get switched (Crank position of ignition switch) power for the coil of the relay on terminal 85 or 86 and constant power to one side of the switch side of the relay. Probably terminal No 30 fed from fuse 3 in fuse box 3. terminal 87 on the relay feeds the starter motor energizing wire. Now you should find a switched ground on the last terminal of the relay supplied by the neutral switch on the gearbox If this is working you should have a neutral light on the dashboard.
The relay terminal No's are standard auto relay layouts in the UK and may be different, but using the diagram colour codes you can work out which is which. 30 and 87 being the switch then 85 and 86 being the coil.
The negative battery terminal should only have the large ground cable and one smaller ground wire. Kawasaki tend to keep all grounds Black/Yellow making diagnosis easy.
We can crack this one way or another.
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