Just ran out to the garage. So red to red wht yielded starter crank in off position. Then moved key to on position and it cranked/engine running now, which is nice to hear again!
Figured to let it idle run for a little while to get out the webs. Put into forward and reverse for a few feet each way and no issues. Steering assist doesn't work... may be a side note.
The red white to blk wht yielded no crank. Made the oil light come on.
Working my way down the list... I'll report back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartmaster
Ok.
Done some digging with the Technical manual for this machine. During these tests, the engine may start, so make sure the machine is in neutral and wheels are off the ground. Assuming your model is 4X4, that's all wheels! or select 2X4 and jack the rear of the machine off the ground.
If you are not getting crank, with ignition off unplug the start relay and confirm the hot circuit by placing a wire bridge at the socket for the relay on the red and red/white wire terminal. the starter should crank immediately. If so, now test the switch to relay circuit by moving the bridge to the red/white and the Black/white wire terminals. Now the starter should crank with the ign switch on and in the crank position. (engine may start) If so the only thing left is the feed for the ground of the relay which is supplied by the neutral switch on the gearbox. In neutral you should have ground on the light green wire to energise the relay coil and a dash light to show the gearbox is in neutral (usually green)
If you are conversant with a volt meter, set to a low DC volt range and check for :
Red wire = constant ground Seen through the start solenoid coil.
Red/white wire = constant 12V fed from the starter relay fuse
Black/white wire = switched 12V from the ign switch crank position
Light green wire = ground from the neutral switch on gearbox
If all these tests prove you have all good feeds to the relay, then the relay is suspect. The Relay is there to isolate load from the start solenoid and Ign switch plus as a safety device to prevent you starting the engine while in gear. You can ignore a previous post with terminal numbers on the relay as it is not a standard auto relay after all.
If your test results are good and if the wiring is fine, but still no crank, then you may need to replace the relay.
If you are not concerned about the engine being able to be started in gear, you can pull the relay and bridge the Black/white and red connections, at least until you source a new relay
If you are not getting ground from the neutral switch, pull the wire off it and connect the wire to a good ground to see if that allows the starter to crank. If so a new neutral switch may be needed.
If you are not concerned about the engine being able to be started in gear, then you can leave that connector to ground or at least until you get a new switch
For the record, I am not condoning overriding safety devices, just advising how you can, to be able to move and test the machine. This is a technique used by technicians around the world for testing purposes and machine recovery when a breakdown occurs.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Colin
|