I did make a mistake in my earlier post. I couldn’t see the diagram very well, for some reason the full resolution version would not load on my laptop, but it shows up just fine on my phone.
I also now see you added a drawing of your own, which I’ll give some attention.
And I also found an article that helped me understand the controller a bit better, and may help you as well.
1. Key Switch: The Microswitch on the FnR gets B+ power via the key switch. The Blue wire is spliced at the common terminal, so power is delivered through the switch, as well as being then directed to the controller ksi pin, so the KSI input is basically “hot” with the key On.
The microswitch also draws power from there to send to the microswitch inside the throttle box, and that switch then makes the connection to send power to the Positive terminal of the solenoid activation coil. This is so the solenoid does not power on (close the main contacts) until you have Key switch On, Forward or Reverse selected, And have pressed the throttle.
KSI being the same as mentioned above, is the Remote On for the controller, and is provided regardless of throttle or FnR position. It is only given if the Key switch is On.
2. Resistor and Diode function:
The Controller has several capacitors inside that provide power for various functions during moments of “surge” current such as sudden changes in throttle command, among a few other things. Since the solenoid main contacts are normally Open, this breaks the main power supply from Pack+ to the controller. The Resistor across the large posts of the solenoid allows a small current to pass by the solenoid to charge the capacitors inside the controller. This is quite often refered to as a “pre-charge resistor”, and serves a few important functions. One being that it allows the controller to stay powered when the solenoid contacts are open, and two it prevents arcing of the solenoid main contacts when they close as the capacitors inside the controller can pull quite a bit of energy when first connected to battery power. Arcing of the contacts will cause them to burn and create a poor connection of the battery supply voltage for the motor, and can result in the solenoid burning internally or even melting and catching fire.
The Diode is across the small terminals of the solenoid. This diode is to prevent voltage in the coil from holding the solenoid core in a partially closed position during disengagement of the solenoid. Partial disengagement can result in burned contacts. When the solenoid coil is powered it creates a magnetic field which forces the magnetic core of the solenoid to close the contacts. When the power to the solenoid coil is removed, the magnetic field collapses, and the core passes back through the coil. Both of these actions induce current flow inthe coil, which cause the magnetic field to remain active for a short period of time, a few hundred milliseconds maybe. This slows the disengagement of the main contacts of the solenoid, which can allow the contacts to arc and burn. Eventually causing damage to the solenoid. The diode provides a current path for the voltage in the coil to take as the field collapses, which prevents the coil holding the contacts open. It can also serve as a suppression diode to prevent a possible voltage surge from the field collapse from back-feeding to other components and causing arcing in other switches.
3. I noticed in your drawing that you have a microswitch on the right side which draws power from the B+ terminal at the solenoid via green wire. The switch then returns back to the negative of the coil side (Small solenoid terminal), which is connected to the B- at the controller, which is literally the pack main negative. That arrangement is a direct short from positive to negative, and will melt that switch and/or wiring when the switch is engaged. The Green wire according to the diagram is supposed to go to the reverse buzzer. If you do not have the reverse buzzer, or it does not work, then you need to disconnect the wires from that switch and tape them off. It would be best if you can remove the green wire from the solenoid entirely.
4. Controller A2 terminal:
When a series motor is being powered and is in operation the armature acts as a motor. If for some reason the rotation of the motor reverses while still being powered, such as the operator mistakenly changing the FnR switch from Forward to Reverse, this causes the motor armature to then act as a generator, and it can have disastrous consequences for the armature and the driveline of the cart. The A2 terminal of the controller is used to control “plug braking” which diverts current created by the motor armature through the controller to pack negative should the desired direction of the motor be changed while the cart is still in motion. It’s basically a safety release to prevent your motor armature from trying to rip itself apart or shredding the gears in the axle if you should ever accidentally (or on purpose) change F to R or vice versa while driving. This article by Alltrax goes into more detail:
https://alltraxinc.com/wp-content/up...ug-Braking.pdf