[CharleyL]

The loose connection on the ballast resister was very likely why your motor was running rough.

Look through the electrical diagrams in the back of the manual. They are very similar, but contain additional wires for things that aren't in all models. Matching the diagram to the 6 digit model number (before the - ) should get the exact diagram, but for most wiring needs any diagram that looks close should provide for most of your needs.

I discovered that although it had dual beam headlights, only the low beam was connected. I bought replacement headlight connectors with pigtail wires from the auto parts store to allow for wiring both the high and low beam and made a new headlight wiring harness back to an added hi-low beam switch. I chose to use a toggle switch rather than a floor hi-low switch, which is available from the auto parts stores, but that was my decision. The floor hi-lo switch just didn't seem to fit well on the floor surface where it had to go, and my big feet wouldn't get caught on it when getting in and out of the cab.

I also added additional brake and turn signal lights high on the back of the cab to look something like the GO-4 models, as well as alternating flashing yellow lights, which ware also added to the front of the cab so I could be, hopefully, seen better if on the highway with it (see my avatar photo).
My insurance company was selling the reflective slow moving vehicle triangles cheaper than I could find them anywhere else, so I bought two, one for the back fence of the stake body and one for the back of the cab, just in case I decide to remove the stake fences.

The rear body on my truckster was hand built from treated lumber by it's former owner, but the stake fences were completely falling apart (it had sat on the edge of a pine forest untouched for almost 14 years). A neighbor of mine had a bunch of TREX Decking left over from resurfacing his deck and he gave it to me. It's very heavy, so I used my woodworking shop planer to thin it down to about 1/2" thick, leaving the wood grain pattern on the face side and trimming the material off the back side. I then rounded over the edges using a router and round over bit. I used stainless bolts, nuts, and washers to assemble it, and aluminum self made aluminum hook latches to join them together at the corners. They are arranged so that the rear fence can be lifted on and off, but to take either side off, the rear must come off first. Both sides must be off to get the fence behind the cab off. The stake pockets proved tough to make accurately enough to fit the stakes properly, so I had a local fab shop build them for me, telling them that their height (stake thickness) when standing on the end tabs, was the most critical dimension that had to be held and I gave them one of my DIY attempts that fit the way that I wanted for a good example of what I was looking for. 2 weeks later I was attaching the stake pockets with stainless lag screws to the wooden bed. The 12 stake pockets (4 spares) cost me $24. I drilled the mounting holes, primed, and painted them myself with rattle can gloss enamel. I was going to have them powder coated, but my friend's powder coating shop was backed up and I didn't want to wait 3 more weeks for them.

I have considered replacing the rear body with a DIY metal body that is 2X longer. My son and I own a welding/fabrication shop so this could be done fairly easily, if we ever take the time to make it. The present wooden body does not dump and it's only about 3' square, so not very handy for bigger projects. The one that we would build would dump using hydraulics of a similar design to the Cushman dump models, and would pivot in the same way as the Cushman models.

I think my Truckster originally had some kind of machinery on it. The PTO shaft for the transmission broke just outside the transmission case, and they likely sold the Truckster rather than rebuild/replace the transmission. I have the control levers and control cables in the cab to run something that is no longer attached to them. The remaining mud on the underside of the frame and fenders looks like quarry dust, so maybe it was being used in a quarry environment for something. I'll never know it's full history because I'm at least the 4th owner so far, but it seems to have lived in North Carolina for the past 34 years, based on what I've learned from the previous owner (son of the wood body builder).

Charley