[CharleyL]

With an electric fuel pump, you don't need or want the bypass filter. Electric fuel pumps maintain fuel pressure and only work if the pressure is low. The original mechanical fuel pump was constant pumping and provided more fuel than the carb could use, thus a pressure relief type bypass filter. Your electric fuel pump will run less, last longer, and provide more accurate fuel pressure to the carb if you eliminate the bypass filter and just connect the fuel line direct from the fuel pump to the carb. Just remember to plug the fuel tank inlet that the side port of the removed bypass filter was connected to.

I made a plate and gasket to plug the hole where the original mechanical fuel pump had been mounted. You can leave the old pump there with no fuel line connections, or remove it and plug the hole with a cover. I chose to remove mine and plug the hole. Less chance of dirt getting into the crankcase that way.

The inlet fuel filter is located right inside the carburetor inlet pipe where the fuel line connects. A pair of needle nose pliers will pull it out. It's just a conical shape fine metal screen, but can give you significant fuel flow problems if it gets plugged.

When rebuilding the carburetor, after all the years of life of these engines, it's necessary to replace the float inside the float bowl of the carburetor. These plastic floats gradually float lower as they slowly absorb solvents from the fuel. The lower it floats, the more fuel will be in the float chamber and the richer your fuel mix will be. Replace both the float and the float needle valve if you haven't already done so. These are never included in the rebuilding kits, but should be.

New automotive master cylinders have bladders as part of the covers that keep the air and brake fluid separated yet allow changes in the volume of brake fluid in the master cylinders. This is a far better way of keeping the moisture in the air from uniting with the alcohol in the brake fluid. I tried very hard to find one of these newer style cylinders that would fit my Cushman, but without success. Everything that I found would have required extensive modification to the Cushman to be able to install it. So I just replaced the master cylinder with a new identical one and resigned myself to purging the brake fluid and replacing it every few years.

The early 1970's Ford F-100 pickup trucks used almost the identical wheel cylinders, but there is a bump in the outside surface of the casting that needs to be ground off to fit the Cushman. The rebuilding kits for these Ford wheel cylinders fit and work in the Cushman cylinders, if you can clean and hone out the Cushman cylinder so it is useable again. At about $25 per new Cushman wheel cylinder and $14 for a rebuilding kit plus the honing costs, you are better off replacing the wheel cylinders with original Cushman cylinders as long as they are available. The master cylinder for my Cushman came from the local forklift repair shop. Apparently, the same master cylinder is used in some models of forklifts. It was on their shelf and I paid about $14 for it.

The same forklift shop had a similar fuel level sensor for my Cushman fuel tank. It was electrically the same and the opening cover plate and gaskets were identical, but the wire to the float was a different shape and length. A little bending and experimenting made it work for me, maybe not as accurate as the original because of the need to bend the float wire, but accurate enough to keep me aware of the fuel level so I don't run out.

Clutch adjustment is pretty much limited to the adjustment of the linkage to the pedal.
You adjust the linkage so that pushing the pedal about an inch does nothing, and then pressing further begins to disengage the clutch. As the clutch wears, the pedal distance before beginning to disengage becomes shorter. When you can no longer adjust the pedal it is likely time for a new clutch. Mine has almost reached time for replacement.
If the clutch slips, the springs in the clutch sometimes get weak from use. I was told that replacing the clutch springs with valve springs would help, but I haven't tried it. I will probably just replace the clutch and throw-out bearing sometime soon.

When comparing 18 vs 22 hp engines you can tell which you have by the location of the spark plugs in the cylinders. The 18 hp has the spark plugs located below cylinder center and the 22 hp has the spark plugs located above cylinder center.

I check in her almost daily, and almost always in the morning. If you have questions I will do my best to help you solve your problems.

Charley