Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum - View Single Post

tyhuck · 08-24-2013, 09:23 PM

Well, the day started out crappy. I was planning on taking my lifted Marathon to the deer lease and move some stands around. I got to the lease, the wife and I got everything loaded up, took the trailer off the truck and hooked it to the cart, and struck out. I got about 300yds away from the truck and realized I forgot the chainsaw, so we turned around and went back. Well, within the last 100yds there is a very steep incline, and we had slowly made it all the way back up and back to the truck, but I knew it was probably overheating the electronics. I figured I would let them cool off a few minutes before going back and everything should be OK since that was the only hill we had to climb. Wrong! I went to get back on the cart and take off, and nothing happened. I poked around under the seat and could smell that electrical "hot" smell. I quickly evaluated that the sylinoid was good and the wiper contacts were all good. The cables were all in good shape with no melted or burnt insulation. It took me a little while to find out what the problem really was.

The trailer I am pulling around is a 5x10 utility trailer. Its the same trailer I use to pull the cart around on. I have used this cart to pull this trailer several times around the yard at home. It always starts out slow, but once it gets moving it really isn't that noticeable back there. I have even used it to pull the trailer loaded level with the top rails with firewood and had no problems. But, those were all on fairly level ground.

Apparantly, the weight of the trailer combined with the length and steepness of the hill we were climbing proved too much for the plastic boards to handle. When I got the cart, I replaced all electronics with newparts, and everything that I could get a heavy duty part for got replaced with the upgraded HD parts. But, in the end, its still a resistor cart. I discovered the weak link to be the plastic boards that hold the contacts in the F/R switch. I had melted the plastic board that hold the contact and it had pulled away, thus breaking the connection and stopping my cart dead. I was luckily able to steal a used board off of my father-in-law's old cart (that he doesn't use any more and gave me permission to steal).

Because of all this, the guy who owns the land I hunt on (who also gave me the Marathon cart) said I could have the other cart that he had at his house, which turned out to be a TXT. It appears to be a 96 with a quick glance. Its needs a good cleaning and a refurbishing, but it looks like its miles ahead of the Marathon already simply because it has Solid State electronics on it already.

So, I told you all that to ask you this. What do I need to do to my new TXT to get it capable of handling the scenario listed above? Im not planning on loading the trailer up super heavy and taking off up mount Everest, but I would like to use it to move stands and feeders, and still be able to drive itself up the hill to where I park my truck. What do you recommend, where can I get it, and how much will it cost?

08-24-2013, 09:23 PM	#1
tyhuck Gone Wild Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: East Tx Posts: 323	TXT Upgrade Advice Well, the day started out crappy. I was planning on taking my lifted Marathon to the deer lease and move some stands around. I got to the lease, the wife and I got everything loaded up, took the trailer off the truck and hooked it to the cart, and struck out. I got about 300yds away from the truck and realized I forgot the chainsaw, so we turned around and went back. Well, within the last 100yds there is a very steep incline, and we had slowly made it all the way back up and back to the truck, but I knew it was probably overheating the electronics. I figured I would let them cool off a few minutes before going back and everything should be OK since that was the only hill we had to climb. Wrong! I went to get back on the cart and take off, and nothing happened. I poked around under the seat and could smell that electrical "hot" smell. I quickly evaluated that the sylinoid was good and the wiper contacts were all good. The cables were all in good shape with no melted or burnt insulation. It took me a little while to find out what the problem really was. The trailer I am pulling around is a 5x10 utility trailer. Its the same trailer I use to pull the cart around on. I have used this cart to pull this trailer several times around the yard at home. It always starts out slow, but once it gets moving it really isn't that noticeable back there. I have even used it to pull the trailer loaded level with the top rails with firewood and had no problems. But, those were all on fairly level ground. Apparantly, the weight of the trailer combined with the length and steepness of the hill we were climbing proved too much for the plastic boards to handle. When I got the cart, I replaced all electronics with newparts, and everything that I could get a heavy duty part for got replaced with the upgraded HD parts. But, in the end, its still a resistor cart. I discovered the weak link to be the plastic boards that hold the contacts in the F/R switch. I had melted the plastic board that hold the contact and it had pulled away, thus breaking the connection and stopping my cart dead. I was luckily able to steal a used board off of my father-in-law's old cart (that he doesn't use any more and gave me permission to steal). Because of all this, the guy who owns the land I hunt on (who also gave me the Marathon cart) said I could have the other cart that he had at his house, which turned out to be a TXT. It appears to be a 96 with a quick glance. Its needs a good cleaning and a refurbishing, but it looks like its miles ahead of the Marathon already simply because it has Solid State electronics on it already. So, I told you all that to ask you this. What do I need to do to my new TXT to get it capable of handling the scenario listed above? Im not planning on loading the trailer up super heavy and taking off up mount Everest, but I would like to use it to move stands and feeders, and still be able to drive itself up the hill to where I park my truck. What do you recommend, where can I get it, and how much will it cost?