Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum - View Single Post - No Start Resistor on Solenoid Getting Hot

scottyb · 09-13-2019, 06:45 PM

The resistor gets smoking hot when the controller calls for power and the solenoid is not closing. The result is the motor is trying to pull a bunch of amperage through the resistor which make it burn your fingers hot.

Start by figuring out if the problem is a bad solenoid or a problem in the solenoid activation circuit. The solenoid activation circuit consists of putting 36 or 48 volts to the 2 small posts on the solenoid.
Test this with the voltmeter by a test lead on each of the small post and key on, in gear, wheels off the deck, try to go.
No power on the small posts? repeat the test with the red test lead on the big
solenoid post with the battery lead connected and test each post. One should give you power reading. If yes you have a negative present on that post.
Put the black test lead on the Controller B- terminal or battery main Negative. Now test the not negative small post with the red lead. Power? If yes you have a bad solenoid. Verify by putting a test lead on each small post and trying to go. If power and no click here replace the solenoid.
If no Positive power present trace the activation circuit back to the pedal and F&R switches to see where it stopped
GL and have a nice weekend.

09-13-2019, 06:45 PM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,418	Re: No Start Resistor on Solenoid Getting Hot The resistor gets smoking hot when the controller calls for power and the solenoid is not closing. The result is the motor is trying to pull a bunch of amperage through the resistor which make it burn your fingers hot. Start by figuring out if the problem is a bad solenoid or a problem in the solenoid activation circuit. The solenoid activation circuit consists of putting 36 or 48 volts to the 2 small posts on the solenoid. Test this with the voltmeter by a test lead on each of the small post and key on, in gear, wheels off the deck, try to go. No power on the small posts? repeat the test with the red test lead on the big solenoid post with the battery lead connected and test each post. One should give you power reading. If yes you have a negative present on that post. Put the black test lead on the Controller B- terminal or battery main Negative. Now test the not negative small post with the red lead. Power? If yes you have a bad solenoid. Verify by putting a test lead on each small post and trying to go. If power and no click here replace the solenoid. If no Positive power present trace the activation circuit back to the pedal and F&R switches to see where it stopped GL and have a nice weekend.