Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum - View Single Post

JohnnieB · 05-11-2019, 07:50 PM

You have two problems, first the solenoid clicks when key is turned on, second cart doesn't move when pedal is pushed.

1. Control wiring looks okay, so I suspect pedal switch is out of adjustment mechanically. Yellow wire to solenoid's small terminal is on the NC contact as it should be, but with pedal up, the lever on the switch ought to be pushed by the lever attached to the bell-crank attached to the rod from the pedal, which opens the NC contacts. (Or the pedal switch is bad, but it looks new)

2. With solenoid contacts closed (IE having B+ on both big terminals), the battery is connected to controller and motor, so either the B+ isn't getting to motor, or controller isn't passing B- to it via the MOSFETs within the controller.

Connect DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals and you ought to have full battery pack voltage (38.2V when fully charged) when solenoid contacts are closed and pedal is at or near top of travel.

If you don't, there is an open in the high current cables, contacts or connections. F/R switch is the usual suspect.

If you do and pressing pedal doesn't make motor turn, check the throttle input to controller. About 0Ω pedal up and about 5,000Ω pedal down.

Also, the controller appears to be a Curtis 1204M. are you sure it is programmed for a 0-5KΩ pot box?

05-11-2019, 07:50 PM	#7
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: PLEASE HELP. All hope lost. Marathon You have two problems, first the solenoid clicks when key is turned on, second cart doesn't move when pedal is pushed. 1. Control wiring looks okay, so I suspect pedal switch is out of adjustment mechanically. Yellow wire to solenoid's small terminal is on the NC contact as it should be, but with pedal up, the lever on the switch ought to be pushed by the lever attached to the bell-crank attached to the rod from the pedal, which opens the NC contacts. (Or the pedal switch is bad, but it looks new) 2. With solenoid contacts closed (IE having B+ on both big terminals), the battery is connected to controller and motor, so either the B+ isn't getting to motor, or controller isn't passing B- to it via the MOSFETs within the controller. Connect DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals and you ought to have full battery pack voltage (38.2V when fully charged) when solenoid contacts are closed and pedal is at or near top of travel. If you don't, there is an open in the high current cables, contacts or connections. F/R switch is the usual suspect. If you do and pressing pedal doesn't make motor turn, check the throttle input to controller. About 0Ω pedal up and about 5,000Ω pedal down. Also, the controller appears to be a Curtis 1204M. are you sure it is programmed for a 0-5KΩ pot box?