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Old 12-02-2015, 02:21 AM   #1
Kencart
Not Yet Wild
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Maui
Posts: 15
Default Solenoid clicks but motor does not engage

First what a great site.. Big help! I purchased a 36volt 1995 EZ-GO electric cart with bad batteries but was able to drive it home. Purchased new batteries installed them but then the cart would not run. I have used threads on this site to troubleshot and will walk through what I have done to this point and share concerns that I have regarding what I have found.

Have cleaned almost every connection and checked continuity on most all wires I believe to be involved. The controller I have has 2 smaller connectors or terminals (F1 and F2) and then 3 larger post (not marked but I believe to be from left to right) B+, B-, and M-

When I walked through the solenoid test I found on this forum, it looks to check out fine. Strong click.. Voltage slightly less between the large terminal (battery side) than the other large post. I took off the diode and 250 OHM resistor.. Tested the diode and get strong current with the DVM but much less when switching the DVM contacts on the diode. When testing the resistor continuity nearly pegs out regardless of which side the meter connectors are placed.. I believe this is a good sign? One finding that I want to share is when testing the blue wire connected to the smaller solenoid post (side close to the controller) I get full voltage around 37v but when I press the pedal it drops to 0, then back up when released.

When testing the controller (all testing tried with wires to the motor disconnected and then connected) tested continuity of wires of the 10 pin connector (which only has 9.. From left to right there are 2 pins, a vacant space then 7 more) on the first pin from left I found that the pin had shorted and was melted.. I removed the wire from the connector housing (red wire with yellow stripe) cleaned the pin and then connected it too the pin.. Connected the housing but when I turned on the Tow-Maintenance switch it flashed.. I took off the wire and tested the wire and got 3.7v.. Tested the pin on the controller and get 35v (this seems strange that there is power present at both points... At this point I feel there must be something wired wrong. I touched the wire to the pin and nothing happened.. I found that when waiting a while it would flash again.. not sure if this is related to the resister collecting power or not (also noticed that the resister would get hot sometimes and found that it would heat up when the Tow switch was in the on position but the key was turned off ... This seems weird.

All the other pins passed the test that I followed (given on this forum) except the last wire (white) which I believe is related to the throttle switch.. So here is another finding I would like to provide.. When checking the white wire I found it had around 5v (not the 0.5v that the trouble shooting test dictated) but when I pushed throttle pedal the voltage would drop to around 4v... Then slowing back to the 5v when slowing releasing the pedal... So the pedal switch seems to function in the regard that it changed the voltage but it was at a higher voltage and the voltage drops not increases...

I have tested the motor using a 12v battery, connecting the terminals on the motor and then placing the positive and negative from the 12v battery. Also another thing.. Looking at motors online I have seen a wire coming out of the end of the motor.. Mine looks to have been removed and a cap siliconed on.

One last thing I noticed that there are three wires that come out of the battery charger connector... A thicker white wire and a black wire which connect to the battery series. But there is a red and white wire that is just left hanging..

Anyways I hope this information is complete enough but I would be happy to provide more info.
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