Thanks for the tips on the wiring.
Plans for the new/upsized batt cables are to use a lil dieelectric paste prior to lugging, more to keep it from "greening " up" and use of shrink tubing where i can use it (I have a "good" stuff that has the adhesive on the inside
)
and prob in time go over and replace all other of the smaller gauge wires/connections, just for my own piece of mind , knowing they are done well.
And speaking of electrical stuff , i have a Taylor Dunn analog state of charge meter on mine which did not work when i got it (found there was only ONE wire going to it, and yet have found any remnants of it's mate LOL) I removed the meter from it's place in the dash and jumpered it to the battery pack itself, to check it's condition. I've got a 36v setup on my cart, and it states that on the gauge sticker, so at least i know it's prob the original or at least correct one. when i connected it to the batteries (using the full 36 volts, correct?) the meter pegs full over to the 3 o'clock position.
i also connected it to just 12 volts of the batt set (I lifted connections to isolate the 12 volts) and it of course reads lower/less "full on " pegging to the right.
Am i stupid on what the meter should be connect to /across? or do i have a bad meter?
At this time my computer is "stupid " and i can't read/open/save anything PDF-wise and can't really make out connection good enough with the thumbnails provided here at this time (I just gotta kind my CD of Powerpoint or whatever i got b4 when i had this problem w/ PDF stuff)
Even tho i read my batt. set after each use i give it w/ a Fluke meter(and charge accordingly), i still want to be able to see something on my dash to give some sort of idea as to where i'm with the batt's charge.
Thanks