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Old 07-19-2019, 11:50 AM   #3
nwocart
Gone Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 647
Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by CP241 View Post
The camber is not adjusted with the allen head bolts. Those are just there to mount the heim joints to the spindle. The heim joints will screw in/out of the control arms and lock in place with the lock nuts. To adjust the camber, you need to remove the allen head screw, then rotate the heim joint in/out (depending if you have negative or positive camber corrections to make) and then reinstall the allen head bolt. Drive it around the block, then pull it back into the garage and brake smoothly and slowly, don't slam the brakes and make it nose dive, just ease in and recheck to make sure it's correct.

Be sure to use lock-tite on those allen head bolts, they WILL come loose if you don't.
I wondered that when I put those bolts in, how likely it would be that they would come loose. guess I'll have to get some lock tite.

I did a bad job of explaining, I know they didn't adjust with teh allen bolts. What I meant was I took them out and turned the helm joins in and out and also ran the bottom helm joints in and out using the nuts.

I'll try to explain this a little better:

I took time and adjusted the camber best I could, then tried to adjust the toe in (as per steeleng instructions in the book). However I did not have anough adjustment in the drag link (I think thats what it calls the thing that runs from side to side to adjust toe in) to get the toe in set to straight, because the wheels were too far out. So i went back to the drawing board, ran both of the helm joints in on each side. By running the helm joints in and pulling the tires closer to the center of the cart, it would allow me to have more adjustment in my drag link without having the threads ran all the way out to the end.
-so now that I have my drag link not ran to the end and the ball joints threaded in a safe amount of threads and I think my tires are pretty straight. within 1/4" at least. good enough for me. but every time I jacked it back up to adjust the camber, it would look good when i started, then i drive it, and it would be leaning too far in. Next time, Leaning too far out. Tried to adjust small amounts, didnt matter, still looked like ****, then had to move the helm joints again. I eventually gave up and accepted that I was never going to get it perfect. I was tired of screwing with the helm joints in and out in and out and tightening them every time I wanted to see how it looked and handled. I didn't once get it anywhere where I thought the camber looked like a perfect 90 degree angle. and if I did, i would tighten all the bolts (they were snug, when i tightened them it didnt adjust anything to take a test drive they would immediately move from 90 degrees or they wouldnt be 90 degrees when I got back.

Before I did all of this adjusting, my steering wheel was close but not straight. but once i gave up on my toe in and camber adjusting, i tried to straighten it which led to:


Quote:
Originally Posted by CP241 View Post
For the steering wheel, I believe you should have 3 full turns in either direction from center. You can just pull the steering wheel off and set it to "center" so it's straight, but you would also want to make sure you're not setting it so you have 4 turns 1 direction, and 2 turns to the other direction. I don't think that would be good for the rack...

You use the drag link to straighten everything up. If you run out of adjustment on it and can't center it, then make sure the wheels and everything are centered before pulling the steering wheel. They're not fun to remove... I think it's a 24mm nut that holds it on. A cordless impact will zip it right off. But then it's usually stuck pretty good to the splines. A rubber dead-blow mallet may be required to give it a little extra "oomph" to pull it off. I have had to cut the steering wheels off before as well.

If you go the mallet route, be sure to thread the nut on 3-4 threads before proceeding to whack the hell out of it. Otherwise when it lets loose, it will probably fly across the garage.

I'm not sure if the bar that goes from side to side is the drag link or if the bar that goes from the right side to the sterring wheel is the drag link, but either way i could not adjust the bar going to the steering wheel enough to get my steering wheel straight.
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