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CP241 · 07-19-2019, 11:00 AM

The camber is not adjusted with the allen head bolts. Those are just there to mount the heim joints to the spindle. The heim joints will screw in/out of the control arms and lock in place with the lock nuts. To adjust the camber, you need to remove the allen head screw, then rotate the heim joint in/out (depending if you have negative or positive camber corrections to make) and then reinstall the allen head bolt. Drive it around the block, then pull it back into the garage and brake smoothly and slowly, don't slam the brakes and make it nose dive, just ease in and recheck to make sure it's correct.

Be sure to use lock-tite on those allen head bolts, they WILL come loose if you don't.

For the steering wheel, I believe you should have 3 full turns in either direction from center. You can just pull the steering wheel off and set it to "center" so it's straight, but you would also want to make sure you're not setting it so you have 4 turns 1 direction, and 2 turns to the other direction. I don't think that would be good for the rack...

You use the drag link to straighten everything up. If you run out of adjustment on it and can't center it, then make sure the wheels and everything are centered before pulling the steering wheel. They're not fun to remove... I think it's a 24mm nut that holds it on. A cordless impact will zip it right off. But then it's usually stuck pretty good to the splines. A rubber dead-blow mallet may be required to give it a little extra "oomph" to pull it off. I have had to cut the steering wheels off before as well.

If you go the mallet route, be sure to thread the nut on 3-4 threads before proceeding to whack the hell out of it. Otherwise when it lets loose, it will probably fly across the garage.

07-19-2019, 11:00 AM	#2
CP241 Nincompoop village idiot Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Michigan Posts: 9,690	Re: steeleng 6" lift questions The camber is not adjusted with the allen head bolts. Those are just there to mount the heim joints to the spindle. The heim joints will screw in/out of the control arms and lock in place with the lock nuts. To adjust the camber, you need to remove the allen head screw, then rotate the heim joint in/out (depending if you have negative or positive camber corrections to make) and then reinstall the allen head bolt. Drive it around the block, then pull it back into the garage and brake smoothly and slowly, don't slam the brakes and make it nose dive, just ease in and recheck to make sure it's correct. Be sure to use lock-tite on those allen head bolts, they WILL come loose if you don't. For the steering wheel, I believe you should have 3 full turns in either direction from center. You can just pull the steering wheel off and set it to "center" so it's straight, but you would also want to make sure you're not setting it so you have 4 turns 1 direction, and 2 turns to the other direction. I don't think that would be good for the rack... You use the drag link to straighten everything up. If you run out of adjustment on it and can't center it, then make sure the wheels and everything are centered before pulling the steering wheel. They're not fun to remove... I think it's a 24mm nut that holds it on. A cordless impact will zip it right off. But then it's usually stuck pretty good to the splines. A rubber dead-blow mallet may be required to give it a little extra "oomph" to pull it off. I have had to cut the steering wheels off before as well. If you go the mallet route, be sure to thread the nut on 3-4 threads before proceeding to whack the hell out of it. Otherwise when it lets loose, it will probably fly across the garage.