1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
Hi folks, first time poster here. I recently purchased a 1997 48V Club Car DS that I am restoring. I am trying to add a 25A voltage reducer that I bought from Scottyb, but I'm having some troubles. I'm working with him on it through email but figured I'd post here in case there were other suggestions to consider.
Long story short - I have everything wired up according to the diagram he gave me, and everything appears to be working correctly as long as I have the battery cable from the 48V positive to the solenoid disconnected. once I connect it, the reducer no longer gets switched off by the key switch, it stays powered on, or so it appears to be staying powered on, I wired in an LED tail light for testing and it only switches on and off when that cable to the solenoid is disconnected. Here is how I have it wired: Converter Yellow to 48V battery pack positive, and then ran a line from 48V battery pack positive to key switch 'IN/off' Converter Red to 12V positive fuse box Converter Black to 12V negative buss bar Converter Blue to 48V battery pack negative Converter Orange to key switch 'OUT/on' I had a voltmeter wired in as well but determined today that the wrong meter was sent so I'm waiting on a replacement. The other question I had was on the key switch itself, the 'IN' position would be where the factory blue wire is connected, and the 'OUT' position would be where the factory green is connected? Prior to installing the reducer I successfully installed a 500 amp controller, 400 amp solenoid, a HD F&R switch, 2g cable set, and the 10 hp Admiral A1 motor, and everything was running fine. The only other change I made when installed the reducer was I removed the mounting bolts for the on-board computer and flipped the OBC 180 degrees and remounted it to give me more clearance to mount the reducer. |
Re: 1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
Your orange wire should go to the cold side of the key switch (i.e. the side that only has power when the switch is on). Use your multimeter to test which side of the switch has power only when the switch is on.
You do not have to supply a wire from the 48V positive to the key switch IN. That connection is part of the club car wiring. The rest of the wiring as you describe it seems to be OK, though I don't have a wiring diagram for that reducer, but it is logical for the red and black to be 12V and the yellow and blue to be 48V. Scotty will steer you right, just follow his directions. |
Re: 1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
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Here is scottyb's drawing for that converter. |
Re: 1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
The Green wire is the "Always ON/Hot" side of the key switch.
The Blue wire is the "Switched/Cold" side of the Key switch. Quote:
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Cheers old friend. |
Re: 1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
Thanks for the clarification guys, yes that is the same diagram I have for mine - but per Scottyb, the info in the upper right that lists what each wire goes to is correct, the 'installer note' is to be ignored.
Regarding the OBC, i didn't realize it was directional. thanks for that, I'll have to see if my cables are long enough to run to the opposite sides now. I think they should be. |
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Re: 1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
thanks again guys, I removed the line i had running from the 48V + to the key switch, and determined that I had the orange line on the always hot side of the switch, so after I fixed that it's working as it should. I also fixed the direction of the cables passing through the OBC, should be good to go now!
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Re: 1997 48V Club Car DS voltage reducer install problem
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