MCOR-4 Disassembly
4 Attachment(s)
I decided to open this defective MCOR-4 to see if it could be user repairable.
I found it fairly easy to open and disassemble. Removing the circuit board to get to the switch and contact wipers requires breaking off two of the four mounting pins. The control can be reassembled without the pins by melting some plastic from the case to hold the circuit board with a soldering gun. The switch would be user replaceable if one can be found. My original problem was occasional resistance readings of 30 to 50 ohms when the switch closed, instead of "0". Strangely, when I checked the switch after opening it, it worked perfectly each time. After reassembly, it continues to work. I don't know why as I didn't identify any problems with the mechanical operation. I'll keep it as a backup spare if and when the replacement acts up. By the way, my original concern about overtravel causing erratic switch operation is not possible. The cam point that closes the switch cannot be over travelled. |
Re: MCOR-4 Disassembly
Good info about a bad design.
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Re: MCOR-4 Disassembly
If You can post 2 more pictures:
One from the soldered side of the PC board.I think a stock ITW 16 series switch will work, just need to verify the mounting. |
Re: MCOR-4 Disassembly
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When I looked at the switch, it appears to be a standard switch with the extended terminals soldered to it. I don't think it would be difficult to unsweat the two existing pins and solder them on the new switch. The screws that mount the switch are almost as big as the switch. |
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Re: MCOR-4 Disassembly
I haven't seen a 4 go bad yet
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The resistance wiper in these is very fragile. |
Re: MCOR-4 Disassembly
The resistance track is a much more robust version of a regular potentiometer design as used on Curtis "PB" box series and some other cart manufactures.
Aside from driving through deep water or blasting the MCOR with a pressure washer, it seems hard for contaminants to get inside. The switch actuation design is where I see potential for trouble, It appears there is a hard-stop that prevents the lever from pressing too hard against the switch plunger if the cart pedal assembly is not in good working order/adjustment. What I cannot tell by the picture is if there is any spring or other energy absorbing design on the white plastic part that presses the switch plunger. I would think that when someone releases the pedal abruptly, the MCOR arm would hit the switch plunger with great velocity and potentially damage the internal snap mechanism. Anyway, that part is custom to Club Car but you can probably just get the stock series 16 switch below and cut the 2 outside tabs (N.O.) as they are not used anyway. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...tches/16-4044/Thanks for taking the time to take one apart and post the pictures. |
Re: MCOR-4 Disassembly
I have seen Chinese versions last longer than the Mexican versions at half the price...Sad but true..
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