Adhesion promoter or not.
I recently had a cart body (97 CC) painted and I have noticed that after a week the paint still feels soft and that I can quite easily nick it with just a modest scratch from a fingernail. I am thinking that it may not have been shot with adhesion promoter but I could use some input before I talk to the painter. It was supposedly shot with four base coats and two coats of clear and baked. I have my doubts.
Thanks all for your thoughts. Chris. |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
Adhesion promotor wont have anything to do with that,you need to talk to the painter.
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Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
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Yea what he said--:thumbup: |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
Sounds like he may not have put enough/any thinner in the paint.
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Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
It could be he did not allow enough flash time between coats and sealed a coat before it cured.
They give recoat after but if more that wait 48 or so hours. |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
This could be several issues so my first question is do you know the painter, and if so how experienced is he?
One could be did he tried to use a flex additive in the paint and or clear, if he did and did not mix it correctly this could cause it. Two could be that he used way to much hardener which prolongs the dry time by "could be days". Three could be a version of what you thought, if you hammer on a bunch of adhesion promoter and then put color over the top right away this will also cause some version of this. I would be willing to guess it has something to do with material mixing but like I said just a guess because it's tough without seeing it. I would definately bring it back and ask them questions about thier process and materials used. |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
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Chris. |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
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Respectfully, Chris. |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
Chris
Unfortunately a paint job is only as good as good what you are putting it over. If the paint that he applied is coming off very easy and still feels soft than it will do you no good to paint over it "the old paint MUST be removed. The best way to do this is sand it, now I didn't say that was the easiest way but it is the safest. Do not use any chemical strippers as it sounds like you are going to repaint fairly quickly. everything you stated sounds good exept the 3 hour turnaround time "WOW" pretty sure there was some missed steps there like maybe scuffing the body first, and some dry times, I mean just the dry times alone for all the products will equal almost three hours. You could check out the sticky about prepping plastic bodies for paint if you like and maybe try to follow that if it helps. At least he is willing to fix it so good luck.:mrgreen: |
Re: Adhesion promoter or not.
Sorry just read back through you're last post and missed the "oily residue", he needs to make sure he is using some sort of in line dessicant air drying system "this removes any oils and water from the line" . Not everyone has to use the oil filter part of the dryer, but it sounds like he made need one because there is some sort of oil contaminant coming from somewhere. They even make cheap ones that attatch right to the end of the gun if nothing else. Also an FYI for painting is absolutely no silicone products present like Armor all and such, these will reak havok on a paint job.
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