My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

Reducer setup plan;

1. 12g red wire from large bolt battery side of capacitor to pos intake wire with built in fuse on 48v voltage reducer.
2. 12g black wire from black yellow bullet wire behind battery 4 that connects directly to B- on controller to neg intake wire on 48v voltage reducer.
3. Yellow wire from 48v voltage reducer to blue wire at the switch (which I believe is the cold side/switched side).
4. Black 12g output wire from 48v voltage reducer to fuse block.
5. Red 12g output wire from 48v voltage reducer to fuse block.
6. All accessories wired to fuse block (radio, headlight/taillight, underbody LED lights).

I’m mounting the 6 panel fuse block in the battery compartment. The 48v reducer is being mounted up front under front cowl space on metal bracket. All wires being ran through dash and under floor mat in little grove with main harness to battery compartment.

Does anybody know what size amp fuses I should use in fuse block for Radio? Head/taillights? Underbody LEDs?

Also, should I include a 48v relay on this? If so, do I install it anywhere on the red wire from capacitor to red input wire on 48v voltage reducer.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

Pics

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

Great job! :thumbup::lol:

Just a couple of things:

1. The fuse on the 48V positive should be mounted close to the battery end of the wire rather than the reducer end.
2. Your wire gauge is good (it could have been thinner on the 48V side but what you've got is more than sufficient).
3. The yellow wire is correct.
4. The accessory block looks terrific.

You do not need a relay because the trigger wire to the key switch does the same job.

As for your fuse sizes. The best way to work it out is to connect your multimeter across where the fuse would be (take the fuse out) and set to measure Amps. Switch on the accessory and measure the number of amps that it pulls. Put in a fuse that can handle just a bit more than you measured.

Cheers.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

Correct me if I’m wrong. When I have the key off, I have no drain on my battery pack from the 48v reducer. However, when the key is on, I will have some drain on the battery pack from the reducer even though all of my accessories are off. Is this where a 48v relay could help me? The relay would only connect the circuit when I turn on a accessory. If all accessories are off and the key is on...the relay would remain open and not deliver power to my reducer to drain my battery pack.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

That is true. You don't need a relay, just a switch will do. I have my reducer so that it is only on if both the switch and the key are on. If either are off, then the reducer is off. This way you can control the reducer even if the key is on but it will be off if the key is off even if you have forgotten to turn off the switch.

Just put a switch in the trigger wire between the reducer and the key. There's not much power on that line so any little toggle switch will work.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

Truth be told though, the amount of draw is insignificant unless you are storing the cart for long periods between charges. For what it’s worth.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

True, but sometimes it's nice to have the control of the switch to stop other accessory switches (such as the signal arm) being knocked and accidentally turning things on.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

I have almost the same setup. Where I am stumped at is the connection to the key switch. The blue is wire is where I need to connect my yellow wire coming from the 30amp reducer. How did you connect yours, if you have a picture it would speak a thousand words. Thank you in advance.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

You’re replying to a 4 year old post. You may be better off starting a new thread, and describe what kind of reducer you have.

Re: My 48v/12v Reducer setup plan
 

I know, it was worth a shot lol. I will start a new thread. Thank you!