2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

I am having a problem with my drive clutch which is in a 2011 RXV Freedom with a clutch part number 602000. A replacement would be $500-$600 dollars.
I could purchase a new drive and driven team clutch for about the same amount. What are the opinions on replacing the clutch with the original replacement or changing both drive and driven to team clutches?

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

I don’t believe you need new clutch. If you could jack up the rear end and get a video of the clutch working at low speed up through higher rpms... one of these guys will be able to give you a good idea of what’s up

I’m still thinking I’d start with a cleaning but if we could see it in action we could get a much better idea of what it’s really doing

Still not sure why these guys ain’t opining

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

Can you describe what kind of problem you're having?

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

In forward and reverse you have to slowly increase rpm to a point where the clutch engages. When it is cold it is a little thump but for some reason as it gets warmer the clutch will engage without any noticeable thump. I would say it engages after about 5 to 10 seconds as I increase the rpm slowly. Other than that the clutch works find once it is moving.

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

I replaced my clutches to the Team drive/driven units on my old 09 EZGO MPT1200. They worked much better than the stock. At the time, shopezgo.com had a special on the Team units with a belt for around $400. They have some decent deals and discounts from time to time.

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

Before dropping $500 I would take your clutch apart and inspect it to see what's wrong. It may be a worn or sticking weight or just dirt built up in the grease and a cleaning may be all it needs to work 100%

If it acts up when it's cold but works fine once it warms up, ita very likely just dirt or something needs cleaned. If anything major was wrong with it, it wouldn't work fine after a few minutes like it does. If you want to throw $500 away, send it my way. I'll be sure to use it on hookers, drugs, booze, and rock n roll so its thrown away wisely :lhmo:

Replacing parts on a whim is a very inefficient and expensive way to fix a cart, car, boat, or anything for that matter. Taking a few minutes to inspect and diagnose the root cause of a problem is much cheaper, and many times a free or nearly free repair. Usually whatever is wrong will be quite obvious once you take it apart.

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

Since I have never removed a clutch before where would the best place be to look for information and instructions for removal. I do understand that you need a special removal bolt but beyond that nothing.

Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

3/4” fine thread bolt and a steel rod... you’ll have to determine the length of the rod leaving yourself adequate threads as to not strip them out... absolutely no less than 1/2 inch... I’d give it more... assuming of course that a 2011 is like all the rest.... I wouldn’t mess with the water method... no point

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...295-350-a.html

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Re: 2011 drive clutch dilemma
 

Is it required to use an impact gun to tighten the bolt or is there another something else I can use?
And by the way thanks for your response in reference to the rod and bolt. Saves money on removal tool.