96 club new batteries wont move
 

I am working on a 96 48v club car. it has the toggle f&R switch 2 solenoid, 1 resistor coil, computer speed controlerand NO run/tow switch.

The cart was stating to show signs of needing new batteries. It would last long and the lights would dim after a short time of driving.

I replaced the batteries and cables. Drive it forward and then reverse. Then nothing . I pushed it back in the garage . I check all battery connections and all were good. The checked to voltage with a load tester . I guess when i took the seat off it was pressing on the accelerator pedal. The cart took off and run into all wall. I turned the key off and after that nothing again.

At this time when i turn the key on the frist solenoid clicks . I put it forward nothing, put it in reverse and the buzzer alarms but no clicking or movement. The battey pack is showing 50.7 volts. After testing i did notice the first solenoidwas getting hot and the computer was also warm. The charger works when plugged in .

The last thing i have done was a reset on the computer. The first time i followed the steps for resetting after disconnecting the last ground and putting in reverse the buzzer lasting about 15seconds the stopped. I hooked everything back up and still the cart did nothing . After alittle i followed the reset procedure again but this time after unhooking the last gound i did not get any sound from the buzzer?

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

Your cart is a Regen 1 (very early regen model - not many were made) - The wiring diagram is below.

If it ran into a wall - you may have jarred some other connection(s) loose. So take the time to go thru and clean/check all wire connections - and pull/spray with electrical contact cleaner and re-seat all plugged connectors (including those on the controller).

When you turn the key - you should hear ONE click from your solenoid - then assuming you leave the cart standing....somewhere between 10-30 seconds later it should click off by itself. Is that solenoid off-timer function working? Its important if that ISN'T working - after you've cleaned and re-seated all your wire connections.

The hot solenoid suggests a problem. It may be the solenoid, or the circuit which controls it. If its getting hot - then the OBC is likely not responsible for your issue, since the solenoid wouldn't get any power (wouldn't click) at all when you turn the key, if the OBC lockout circuit had failed.

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

Guys,

I am not trying to hijack this thread but my camp neighbor is having this exact same problem with this exact same cart. I am not good on Club Cars but he knows nothing about them at all so he asked me to help him troubleshoot. Maybe we can kill two birds with one post.

Can someone help us understand the difference between the two solenoids and when they should click? I am assuming there should always be a solenoid click with the accelerator pedal. Should the other solenoid click happen when the key is turned from "off" to "on" or should turning the key do nothing and the second solenoid clicks when F/R is chosen?

I know you say with the key, joesam. I am just trying to confirm that when you say "key" the F/R switch can be in any position, to include neutral, and the associated solenoid will click.

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

Yes - any position - when you turn the key on a Regen 1 it will click (only the main solenoid) then if you don't move the cart - it will time-out approx 10-30 seconds later and "un-click" (Sergio would call that de-energise) that initial connection. Then - if you press the pedal - it will re-energize before the cart will/can move.

Note that the pedal will also activate the second (with coil) solenoid - the pedal causes two clicks (if the cart has sat for 30 seconds or more with the key on) - or the pedal just adds the second solenoid if you have just turned the key on and the main solenoid hasn't timed-out.

The second "dynamic braking or Energy Displacement" solenoid (the one with the coil) relies solely on pedal position (with key on) to activate/deactivate.

It has been my experience that if the time-out function is not working properly - the controller likely has "issues".

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

Ok my first solenoid clicks on when you turn the key on then stays on and gets hot after a few minutes. The other solenoid never makes a sound .

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

OK - did you clean and refit all your connections? Before I make any assumptions about your controller - its important to know if you have an original controller (Black "T" shaped and no longer available) or whether its a replacement controller (dull Grey with a very short two plug adapter cable). I am only (somewhat) familiar with the original black ones. If you have a grey one, I'm going to have to defer to someone more familiar with that controller circuitry. Because my only experience was with two original black ones (mine and a friend's). He has since sold the cart - so now I have access to only one (mine). If its helpful, HERE is a link to the full service manual for that cart. It has a myriad of test steps for checking the controller in an "original" cart (Sec. 21A).

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

Thank you so much and yes its the original black t shape

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

OK - well a Black controller should time-out the solenoid - and the timer varies depending (I think) on date of assembly. Early ones could take 20 seconds or more, and later ones between 3-10 seconds. That solenoid should not stay on unless the cart is being driven....worrisome. There is a chance (not a big one) that solenoid is somehow failed - and not making a connection between the two big posts. Using an ohmeter - check to see if the two big posts on the main solenoid (not the one with coil) have continuity between them with key on - and no continuity with key off. Or you can put the two big wires together on one post (be sure to put them back afterward) - which will "force" the connection between the two and the cart will function if the solenoid is failed.

The "Z" connectors on the Regen 1 cart controller have smallish pins which can be a bit bit flaky - so spraying those connectors with electrical cleaner and ensuring they are inserted well and making good connection is important. One person on this forum a few years ago did only that - and his cart worked afterward.

If the solenoid is good and double checking all wire connections has been done - then the troubleshooting chart on page 21-23 is your next resort. BTW-Checking the solenoid is step 1 on that chart.

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

We started testing with the first solenoid. When i test with the key off i have 48v on the battery side and 42 on the other ? Why? So i was going to change the solinoid thinking it was bad. I removed the solinoid from the cart leaving all the wires hooked to the solinoid. I was going to test it again where i could see it better so want i went to hook the +battery back up it arcs really bad ? Is the motor grounded ?

Re: 96 club new batteries wont move
 

I also seems like if i touch anything metal I get shocked. Now that i have removed the positive im not getting shocked but the wire coming the main solinoid is grounded .so now i cant tested ? Does any know if it would be the motor or controller?