Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

I have a club car and no diagram. I think it was a 97 DS but at some point the controller was replaced. The number on the controller is 1C3645SH4D222C5 and looks like made by GE and dated 2004. It also has an adapter for the controller that was mounted behind the solenoid. The cart was working, but the solenoid was replaced and then nothing. I might add, I used a 36v solenoid at first to prove to my friend that this was the problem. Then the owner decided to get the 48v solenoid, do it himself and he forgot how to hook it up. I bought the cart for $300 a year later and now it is my problem. I can not get the solenoid to click. I can ground the blue/while wire and it clicks. The controller is to tell it to click by making the ground connection when the pedal is pushed. The wire from the micro switch in the throttle tells the controller to turn on and ground the - side of the solenoid. I have the voltage from the gas peddle micro switch to the controller, but the controller does not make the ground. Also, If I ground the blue/white wire, the solenoid clicks, but I have no movement either of the cart. It appears the controller may have been damaged. It there a way to test it. It has multi plug wires. I am in doubt of the green and also the yellow wire from the OBC. I do not know what they do.. This cart only has 1 solenoid, not 2 like most of the drawings. I am at a loss on what to do. Can I ground out something to make the controller work? What is the correct controller for the cart? Any input would be very appreciated. Greg

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

See if you are getting 48 v positive (+) power to the controller pin #1 when the solenoid clicks.
Then check the throttle signal- remove wires from pins 2 & 3 and plug ohm meter in then press the gas. What is the full range of this test?
Post make and model # of the control. Alos any other info printed on it like voltage or amperage.


Nvrmnd - Multiple threads on the same problem is a problem.

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Scotty - I just PM'd him a link to a full Regen 1 manual with detail on tests and socket pinouts. I'm guessing he's got some wire functions "mis-identified". Given he's got an adaptor - wire colors to the controller may have to be deduced from their relative position on the original Z plug.

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Thanks I got it and will be back at it in the morning.

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Scotty, The controller is an aftermarket I think. It said GE on it and a part number IC 3645sh4d222c5 made in 2004 and has an adaptor that it plugs into that is mounted behind the main Solenoid. There is only one Solenoid in this cart. The adapter is to make it work from Regen II to Regen 1. I do not know the difference. This motor does have an extra pigtail out if it with a small connector on it.

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Well, I spent another day on the cart. The on board computer has no blue and no white wire. The pin outs on the the controller are very close, but not exact. It is aftermarket with an adaptor to hook it up. I gave the model of the controller in the previous post. I can not follow the flow charts because after the first step, it said to go to the blue wire on the OBC. It looks like the Blue wire and the white wire are the B+ volts for the computer. I do not have those colors wires. I did check the speed control ( gas pedal) and I have the voltage on one side 3.5 and when the pedal is pushed it does go to zero. that is to tell the OBC not to be in sleep mode. And the switch does switch the B+ back to the controller when I here the small switch click, so it is also good. That would be the blue wire from the key and then the purple wire back to the controler. that all is good. On the OBC I have Brown, Green, yellow, Red, and the grey going up to the charge socket. On the yellow wire on the OBC, I should have 5 v from the controller, I have 0, then .6 when I push the pedal. I am reading only 500 ohms from the yellow wire to ground at the OBC with the controller unplugged. I am not at the cart now and it may have had an orange wire on the OBC too, I cannot remember. I tried to reset the OBC as per the manual. The controller has 48v on it pin 1. I can ground the one side of the selonoid and get it to key up and put the 48 on the controler. still no movement. The reverse buzzer does work, and I checked the Forward REV switch as it does switch voltage at the controller when I push either. I am thinking the OBC is bad but not sure. Is there a way to bypass it and just have the controler in line. I can take pictures or what ever can help. Tired for today. Aftermarket and the adaptor is throwing me off I think. Greg

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

So you have a Regen 1 cart correct? Can you snap a few pics of your setup so we can better visualize what you're working with?

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Yes, daybrake tomorrow I will take many pictures
Greg

Re: Serial a9741-613102 no click 48v after market part
 

Sorry to hear your having trouble. I thought the manual would really help - and I'm really surprised that your wiring harness/plug wires doesn't match-up the colors.

On Regen models, its not uncommon for people to remove the second solenoid (dynamic braking) and leave the pigtail from the end of the motor unplugged. Doing that can speed it up going downhill - but shouldn't change the operation otherwise.

I'm afraid I know nothing about the GE Regen 1 replacement controller - but you are still Regen 1 or else you'd have a run/tow switch as part of the conversion. I guess your cart is best described as a Regen 1 1/2. Unlike Sergio I can't interpret wiring diagrams with both eyes closed - especially with wiring color changes. Hopefully he'll see this and help figure out what it is and why its different.

Here's what I do know:
The original (Red Light) OBC was often a problem and was replaced with a newer type with an amber light - what color is your light? The difference in OBC wire colors may be a result of that.