95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

I have a 95 club car ds 48v that I recently purchased and am converting to a hunting cart. Was completely stock, but I have been doing some upgrades including a new hd f&r switch, cables, hd solenoid, 700 amp controller, and a new d&d motor (all from scottyb). I've gotten everything installed and now when I push the pedal, all I hear is the solenoid click but nothing else. I have a new set of batteries and they measure 50.8v according to the meter I got from scottyb. This is my first cart, and I'm ready to get it moving again. I've checked all my connections are tight. Where do I go from here? Any advise would be helpful. Thanks.

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

It could be the micro switches. What is the prefix for the serial number? Post some photos of battery compartment etc, folks here are very knowledgable and will gladly help.

As a side note, installing new parts one at a time is good practice. Then it is easier to point to problems.

M

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

Thanks for the response. The serial number A9528-444165. I have the body taken off so I'll include the pictures of what I have. And when I hit the pedal for the first time and all I heard was the click, my first thought was "I probably should have done each part and tested after."

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

Wow I am not sure where to begin. I am just guessing here. Always disconnect power at last neg post before working on cart. Some folks here think you should jack up cart back wheels as well. I don't see a OBC or MCOR so the attached wiring diag may not be correct.

Was the original cart a 36v or 48v? I am going to assume it is a 48v. Haven't seen 4-12v battery carts before only 6-8v and 8-6v carts. All the color coded wires seem to be wrong to me, so you may have to trace what you have out.

photo 1 - Controller small wires should be red (1) green (2) yellow (3)

photo 2 - HD solenoid is blue cable battery positive?

photo 3 - I would be very afraid with cables lugs so close to alum frame.

photo 4 & 5 - Please refer to wiring diagram for basic connections

Here is a basic 48v wiring diagram that I have used in the past. You should be able to trace your wires to double check they are correct.

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

Sounds like a good starting point. The cart does have a OBC but I'm not sure what a MCOR is? And the cart came with 4 12v batteries on it and was running then, so that's what I went back with when I replaced them. However, it does seem like 6-8v would fit better and the cable kit I got from scottyb has 2 battery cables that I didn't use, so that would make sense. I assume that makes a difference?

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

I would suggest emailing scottyb those pictures and call and talk to him about it. Seems like there was a misunderstanding of what you actually have. I just rebuilt my first cart, 90 CC DS. Went from 36 v to 48v. Sounds like we got the same kit and I got the high torque D&D motor. I had to call him a couple times but it all worked out. Good luck.

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

MCOR is hooked up to your gas pedal and sits on side of passengers frame. It has 2 connectors. 6 8v batteries will be stronger and give you more range just for future info.

M

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

I am having this same issue with my 2004 club car ds series cart. Ordered all the above from scottyb, f/r switch, hd solenoid, 700 amp controller, and put a new d and d motor on too. Got everything hooked up and all I hear is a click from under the cart. I have emailed scotty b, but can't get him on the phone..

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

Gator use the 48V diagram I posted to trace every connection. I also had all the same items from Scotty and it worked just fine with my EMP Series motor. Start with micro switches !

M

Re: 95 ds clicks but won't move?
 

This cart does not have a MCOR as stated above it has a true 0-5k potentiometer.
The solenoid clicks - so the micro switches mentioned are working.
The problem lies in the pot signal or control power supply or high amp cables... assuming the motor works? (have you seen it work? )
Here is where you need to start...
Jack one rear wheel off the floor.

You should have 50v (+) to pin #1 on the control when the solenoid clicks

Remove the Pot signal wires (pins 2 & 3) and plug your meter into them. Switch to ohms and check the signal. It should read 0-5k

If both of these tests give good results. Try the motor test with 24v and see the wheel spin. Your is a series motor