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-   -   2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt) (https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=143477)

NLaudy 06-30-2018 07:59 PM

2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
5 Attachment(s)
Long story short a buddy picked up a good deal on a golf cart but it hasn’t been run in probably 6+ years! I told him I would try to help him with it so it is in my garage.

I pulled all the batteries out of it and topped them off with distilled water and charged them. We are going to replace them but we’re trying to atleast use them for the troubleshooting phase to see what else may be wrong. After charging each battery is showing right around 8.1 or 8.2 on my multimeter.

The key didn’t seem to work right so for troubleshooting purposes I bypassed it by connecting the green and blue wires together.

When I put the cart in Run mode and and select forward or reverse and press the pedal nothing happens. I know this is generic but where is the best place to start my troubleshooting. I put my multimeter on the main positive and main negative and am showing right at 48.0v. When I hook it up to both sides of the big solenoid terminal it is showing 47.9v

Also I replaced the battery wires just because the old ones were in rough shape.

One last question do these carts have two solenoids. I am seeing the main one and then one looks like another over by the OBC.

NoleFan4Ever 06-30-2018 09:01 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
That is a Regen II cart and is a real pain..... The solenoid you saw is your Dynamic Brake solenoid. It was discontinued in '02 when the IQ carts were released.

When you place it in reverse does the reverse buzzer sound?

mrgolf 06-30-2018 09:11 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
Looks like you may have some connection that are croded and may not be making good contact. I would start by unhooking batteries and then remove and cleaning all the wires small and large.

NLaudy 06-30-2018 11:23 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever (Post 1517006)
That is a Regen II cart and is a real pain..... The solenoid you saw is your Dynamic Brake solenoid. It was discontinued in '02 when the IQ carts were released.

When you place it in reverse does the reverse buzzer sound?

Thanks for the prompt response! When I place it in reverse the buzzer does not sound. I hooked a battery to the buzzer just to verify it worked and it did sound then.

NLaudy 06-30-2018 11:25 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mrgolf (Post 1517011)
Looks like you may have some connection that are croded and may not be making good contact. I would start by unhooking batteries and then remove and cleaning all the wires small and large.

I can definitely do that. All the Battery wires have been replaced but the ones going to the controller, solenoid, and all that good stuff could definitely use a cleaning!

NoleFan4Ever 06-30-2018 11:37 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by NLaudy (Post 1517067)
Thanks for the prompt response! When I place it in reverse the buzzer does not sound. I hooked a battery to the buzzer just to verify it worked and it did sound then.

That is usually the sign of a failed controller..... BUT, it has to be powered up and obviously yours may not be yet.

With switch On (or jumped in your position), in Fwd, and pedal depressed; Probe the 2 solenoid small posts and see if you are getting 48vdc?

NLaudy 07-01-2018 12:39 AM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever (Post 1517069)
That is usually the sign of a failed controller..... BUT, it has to be powered up and obviously yours may not be yet.

With switch On (or jumped in your position), in Fwd, and pedal depressed; Probe the 2 solenoid small posts and see if you are getting 48vdc?

Thank you again for the quick response. So I twisted the blue and green wire to turn the cart on since I don’t have a good key switch. I turned the tow switch to the Run position and placed the other switch in forward.

When I press the gas pedal and probe the solenoids big lugs I get 47.8v. However, when I probe the small posts I do not show any power. It just sits at 0.

NoleFan4Ever 07-01-2018 11:46 AM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
Then you need to check the power at the Run/Tow switch and at the microswitch in your v-glide (Potentiometer). You will hear a click from the v-glide if it is actuating, but the power must run thru it.

Here is your drawing:
http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/48vregen.jpg

NoleFan4Ever 07-01-2018 12:03 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
Test the solenoid activation circuit by doing the following: (Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc or pack voltage.
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc or pack voltage
If you are getting those voltages then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts for continuity across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows continuity, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.
If you are not getting the voltages at step 1 or 2; then you will have to trace back from the drawing and see where it is at. Start with the Potentiometer and go forward.

NLaudy 07-01-2018 02:19 PM

Re: 2000 Club Car Assistance (48volt)
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever (Post 1517155)
Test the solenoid activation circuit by doing the following: (Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc or pack voltage.
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc or pack voltage
If you are getting those voltages then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts for continuity across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows continuity, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.
If you are not getting the voltages at step 1 or 2; then you will have to trace back from the drawing and see where it is at. Start with the Potentiometer and go forward.


Wow it is hottt out there today! I did a little more testing with my limited knowledge so here we go.

I disconnected the connector going up to the tow/run switch. When I place DVM’s red lead on the main positive and stick the black lead in the connector hole I am showing pack voltage. Of course this is before the switch rather than after. Not sure how I would check the after switch voltage without stripping the wire back.

I followed your steps to test the solenoid and step 1 isn’t giving me any readings. Step 2 gives me the pack voltage. I also noticed while doing step 2 that if I place the red lead on the pack positive and the black lead on EITHER small solenoid posts it will read pack voltage.


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